January 2025 - Tomato Cumin Soup

January 1, 2025Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Now that the holidays are over and in much of the country, it's FREEZING, a cozy, comforting soup recipe seems to fit the bill.

I created a tomato cumin soup in the 1990's for my PERFECT PICNICS cookbook for Abbeville. I wanted something basic and familiar but with a twist. The multiple spices in this soup do the trick. Years later I tweaked the recipe for an IT'S ALL IN THE TIMING menu. Try making double or triple batch as the soup freezes perfectly for many months and is GREAT to have on hand last minute. For a heartier first course or even a light lunch, stir in a couple of cups of sliced raw shrimp last minute and simmer until shrimp are just cooked through, 2 or 3 minutes. Enjoy and stay warm.

Tomato Cumin Soup

Serves 6-8 generously

Ingredients

¼ cup olive oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and chopped
2 stalks celery with leaves if possible, chopped
¼ cup whole cumin seed, toasted
1 tablespoon whole coriander seed, toasted
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons paprika
1 bay leaf
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups chicken stock
8 cups chopped tomatoes, fresh or canned San Marzano
¼ cup Italian tomato paste
1 teaspoon brown sugar or molasses
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste ( a few drops)
¼-½ cup heavy cream or buttermilk
½ cup sour cream or yogurt for garnish
⅓ cup chopped fresh chives, scallions or cilantro or a mixture

Method

In a large saucepan or stockpot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, cumin and coriander seeds, thyme, paprika and bay leaf. Saute, stirring occasionally until the vegetables soften and the onions turn golden. Add the garlic and cook a few minutes more. You may need to add a bit of water to prevent burning.
Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir over low heat for 8 minutes more.
Stir in the stock, tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, vinegar, salt, pepper, Tabasco. Simmer, partially, covered for about 1 ¼ hours, stirring occasionally to prevent burning.
Puree the soup in batches in a blender or use a hand-held emulsifier. Return to pan, add the cream or buttermilk and simmer 5 minutes. Do not boil. Correct seasoning. Serve, garnished with sour cream or yogurt and fresh herbs.

December 2024 - Citrus Shortcakes

December 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Little shortcakes can scream BIG OCCASION. individually portioned for each guest, lavishly layered with thick cream, ice cream, fruit or all of the above? We all know the standard strawberry iteration: a biscuit split in half and filled with whipped cream and strawberries macerated in sugar until the fruit surrenders its juice and becomes wonderfully saucy. But why stop there? Strawberry season won’t arrive in most of the country for several months.

For something sunny to offset bleak December, try a simple citrus shortcake — simple, as in from a box. There’s no shame in it. The cake that comes of combining Duncan Hines Lemon Supreme Cake Mix and Jell-O Lemon Instant Pudding adds up to far more than the sum of its parts, luxuriously moist, with plenty of citrus punch. Garnish the lemony little cakes à la creamsicle, with vanilla ice cream, orange sorbet, orange slices and whipped cream. Delicious and unexpected and no one complains when presented with a triple whammy of ice cream, sorbet and whipped cream.

Citrus Shortcakes

Serves 12

How To:

Make cakes: Preheat oven to 350F. Butter or grease a 12-cup muffin tin. Put ¼ cup fresh lemon juice in a measuring cup and add enough water so you have ⅔ cup liquid. Add 1 box Duncan Hines Lemon Supreme Cake Mix, 1 box Jell-O Lemon Instant Pudding mix, 4 room-temperature eggs, ½ teaspoon lemon extract and the lemon juice-water mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat to combine. Add ⅔ cup canola or other neutral oil and beat until smooth, approximately 6 minutes, occasionally stopping to scrape down sides of bowl. Divide batter among muffin tin cups. Bake in center of oven until tops are golden and a toothpick inserted in center of a cupcake comes out clean, 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the glaze: In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest,¼ teaspoon lemon extract and ½ cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, until smooth. Set aside.

Once the cakes are removed from the oven, decrease temperature to 350F. Let cakes cool in tin 5 minutes, then invert them onto a wire rack. Flip so cakes sit top-side up. Prick tops of cakes all over with a fork. Spoon glaze over cakes and let cool.

Use a small, sharp knife to cut 6 large navel oranges into supremes (segments free of skin and membrane). Alternatively, remove all skin and pith from oranges, then slice horizontally into rounds ¼ inch thick. In a small bowl, toss oranges with 1 tablespoon sugar and 2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier. Set aside.

Whip 1 cup cold heavy cream with 2 teaspoons sugar.

To serve, halve each cake and warm slightly in oven (optional). Place bottom half of each cake on a dessert plate. Top with one scoop each of vanilla ice cream and orange or lemon sorbet. Arrange spiked oranges on top of ice cream and drizzle with juices. Top with remaining cake halves. Add a dollop of whipped cream to each plate.

November 2024 - Pan-Sautéed Duck Breast

November 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

PAN-SAUTÉED DUCK BREAST

with Raspberry Cognac Sauce

About the Recipe

I don't understand so many Americans disliking duck. I fall into a completely different category. I adore it whether roasted whole, legs confited or braised, or breasts sautéed.

This recipe is divine for people like me but also for those of you who like steak but don't think you care for duck. Sautéed duck breast or magret tastes so much like (much improved) steak that I've actually had dinner guests mistake it for fillet or sirloin.

The sauce is fabulous but optional. Serve the magrets with nothing but roast potatoes and a salad or include any sauce you'd normally offer with a steak. I particularly like an herby, garlicky homemade mayo. BUT the Raspberry Cognac sauce IS special and super flavorful. A little goes a long way. I make extra to freeze for later use alongside more duck, turkey, goose or even pork chops.

This festive meal is perfect as we head into the holidays. Polenta (either soft or sliced and baked) or spoonbread is a good accompaniment as are mushy peas or a saute of green peas and beans and sugar snaps. Truffle butter can gild the lily.

Note: score the duck fat in as tiny a grid as you can to release the maximum amount of fat and crisp the skin. Also, scoring is much easier when the fat is quite cold. Ideally place the breasts in the freezer for 15 minutes before scoring.

Pan-Sautéed Duck Breast with Raspberry Cognac Sauce

Serves 8

Ingredients

1 tablespoon rendered duck fat or flavorless vegetable oil
1 carrot, peeled and minced
1 stalk celery, minced
2 large shallots, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup ruby port
6 tablespoons Cognac
2 tablespoons berry or balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon whole fennel seed
several sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
several sprigs fresh parsley
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1/2 pound fresh raspberries
1/2 cup water
8 individual duck breast halves—total weight about 4 pounds. OR use 4 1-pound duck magret halves
1 cup homemade or store-bought frozen duck or chicken stock
sea salt, freshly ground pepper, Tabasco, sugar, more vinegar or lemon juice, all to taste

Method

In a large saucepan, warm the duck fat or oil with the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently until the vegetables are soft and beginning to color, about 15 minutes.
Add the port wine, Cognac, vinegar, herbs and spices, 3/4 of the berries, and 1/2 cup water. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat and cook until it is reduced by half. Strain the pan contents into a smaller saucepan and set aside. Or don't strain if you prefer a chunkier sauce (I don't strain)
With a sharp knife, score the skin of the duck breasts in a diagonal grid with lines about 3/16 inch apart. Cut through most of the fat, but don’t cut into the meat.
Heat a heavy non-stick skillet, large enough to hold the duck, over medium high heat until hot. Place the duck in the pan, skin side down, and cook until the skin is quite brown, about 10 minutes. Adjust the heat so the skin doesn’t burn. A large amount of duck fat will melt into the pan. Periodically pour it off into a heat-proof container.
Reduce the heat to low and cook the breasts on the other side until done, about 5 minutes. The meat should look like very rare steak and register about 124F on a instant read thermometer.Or cook to taste.
Transfer the duck to a platter, cover loosely with foil, and place in a warm oven while you finish the sauce.
Pour the duck fat out of the pan and place the pan over high heat. Add the stock and bring to a boil while stirring and scraping all the tasty bits from the pan bottom.
Add the reserved berry mixture and bring to a simmer.
Cut the magrets into 1/4 inch slices or serve whole, one per person. Add any accumulated duck juices to the hot sauce along with the reserved berries. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Divide the duck slices evenly among 6 dinner plates and fan them attractively. Top with the sauce, garnish with the reserved raspberries and fresh herbs and serve.

October 2024 - Sachertorte

October 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

My birthday is in October and my mind turns to cakes. There are SO many that I love — but this year I'm opting for a Sachertorte. The original of this famous Viennese cake was created for Prince Metternich by Chef Franz Sacher in 1832. It consisted of a dense chocolate cake with a layer of apricot jam between the 2, 3 or 4 layers then coated with chocolate glaze. The original recipe remains a closely guarded secret. I got my version years ago while staying with an Italian friend Livia in Rome. I have no idea how close it is to the original but I love it and I love it even more with a large scoop of vanilla or chocolate ice cream.

I prefer Livia's orange marmalade filling but please feel free to experiment if you prefer raspberry, strawberry, peach or the original apricot. If you're a particular fan of jam filling, there is no reason not to slice your cakes in half horizontally and have 4 rather than 2 layers. Be sure not to overcook the cake so it remains moist. Happy Birthday to all.

Sachertorte

Serves 10-12

Ingredients

For the Sachertorte:

1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup dark unsweetened cocoa powder
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup dark brown sugar
3 eggs at room temperature
1/4 cup sour cream or crème fraiche at room temperature
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups sifted cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the Orange Filling:

1 1/3 cups best quality orange marmalade
1-2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
tiny pinch of salt

For the Chocolate Glaze:

6 ounces of bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons neutral vegetable oil
small pinch salt

Method

For the Sachertorte:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour two 9-inch round cake pans and line with parchment.
Heat the milk in a small pan until bubbles begin to appear around the edges. Remove from the heat. Mix the cocoa and white sugar together in a small bowl and slowly beat in the warm milk. Let cool.
Cream the butter with the brown sugar. Beat in the eggs, sour cream, and vanilla. Add the cocoa mixture. Sift the remaining dry ingredients together and gently blend into the butter mixture. Do not over beat.
Divide the batter between the prepared cake pans. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, or until the cake shrinks slightly from the sides of the pans and springs back when touched gently in the center. A toothpick should just come out clean. Cool on a rack for a 10 minutes, then turn out onto the rack. Let cool completely before filling and glazing. This can be done a day before filling and glazing if desired.
Lay one cake layer on a serving plate. Top with the orange filling and then the second cake layer. Pour the warm chocolate glaze over the cake, spreading with a metal spatula.

For the Orange Filling:

Stir the liqueur into the marmalade until the desired consistency is reached.

For the Chocolate Glaze:

Place chocolate, oil and salt in a double boiler (or metal bowl set over simmering water). When melted and still very warm, pour evenly over the filled cake.

September 2024 - Ginger, Garlic & Sesame Glazed Chicken

September 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

I love sesame chicken. This recipe is a melange of several of my favorite takes on the dish. The peanut sauce can be made up to a month or two ahead and refrigerated. I always make extra. The chicken is best when allowed to marinate for at least 24 (and up to 48) hours in the fridge.

I like this chicken both hot or room temperature. In summer it makes great picnic fare. Serve with an Asian side salad or for a more elaborate meal, summer rolls, sesame noodles, Asian slaw and/or a cucumber-avocado salad with Chinese vinegar and soy all work well.

Ginger, Garlic & Sesame Glazed Chicken with with Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce

Yields 8-10 servings

Ingredients

For the Chicken:

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
4 teaspoons kosher salt plus more as needed
4 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
8 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
5-6 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 recipe Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce (see below)
2 tablespoons neutral oil
4 scallions, thinly sliced and ¼ cup cilantro chopped for garnish

For the Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce:

2 tbsp neutral oil such as canola
4 cloves garlic minced
1 tablespoon grated ginger
5 tbsp hoisin sauce
2 tbsp smooth peanut butter or tahini or a mixture
1/2 cup water
1 tsp sambal olek or Chinese chile paste or more to taste
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil or more to taste

Method

For the Chicken:

Mix together sesame oil, salt, ginger and garlic. Add 4 tablespoons of the peanut dipping sauce and smear mixture all over the chicken and underneath the skin. Use it all. Place in a lidded container or large ziplock bag and refrigerate at least an hour and up to 48 hours. 2-3 hours before baking, remove chicken from refrigerator and place on a rimmed baking sheet. You can line the baking sheet with parchment to make clean-up easier, but it’s not necessary.
2. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Drizzle chicken with the neutral oil. Roast until the chicken is golden brown and the juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pricked with a fork, 30 to 40 minutes or less and about 158 on a thermometer. Can broil briefly to crisp up if needed.
3.Transfer chicken to a serving platter and carefully pour any pan juices on the baking sheet into the bowl with the peanut sauce. Whisk until combined. Taste the sauce and add more soy sauce, vinegar or hoisin if you’d like.
4.Drizzle or brush some of the peanut sauce all over chicken pieces, reserving some sauce for serving. Garnish with scallions and cilantro and serve with reserved peanut sauce.

For the Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce:

Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat, then add oil, garlic, and ginger. Saute until vegetables are lightly browned.
Whisk in the hoisin, peanut butter and water.
Once it boils, immediately remove from heat and add the chile paste. The sauce will thicken a lot as it cools. Once cool, add the sesame oil and adjust other ingredients to taste

August 2024 - Sheet Pan Clam Bake

August 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

There's a lot to be said for a sheet pan supper and this sheet pan Clam Bake is of the top on my list. It's miraculously simple!! For me, baked shellfish has even more flavor than steamed or boiled. And with clams, mussels, chorizo, potatoes, corn and more, there is really no need for lobster, making the recipe inexpensive and easier. The ideal summer meal, bake it inside and eat it outside if you can. REALLY delicious and effortless to throw together last minute. I make it all year long. Fresh corn is best but even frozen corn on the cob works here.

Sheet Pan Clam Bake

Ingredients

1 pound baby potatoes
4 ears corn, each cut crosswise into 6 pieces
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning
1 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pound mussels, debearded and scrubbed
24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 pound hot dried chorizo, thinly sliced
2 large red onions, cut into wedges 8 wedges each
2 lemons, quartered
4 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or scallion greens

Method

Preheat oven to 400F. Lightly oil 2 baking sheets or coat with nonstick spray or line with foil
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook potatoes until just tender and parboiled, about 10-13 minutes. Stir in corn during the last 3 minutes of cooking time; drain well.
In a small bowl, combine butter, garlic, Old Bay Seasoning and thyme.
Evenly divide the potatoes, corn, mussels, clams, shrimp, chorizo, onion and lemons in a single layer onto the prepared baking sheets. Pour half of the butter mixture over each and gently toss to combine.
Place on two racks in oven and bake for 12-15 minutes--exchanging the positions of the baking sheets after 7 minutes---or until all the mussels and clams have opened and the shrimp are opaque.
Serve immediately, garnished with chives or scallions. Serve with hot garlic bread if desired.

July 2024 - Strawberry Short Cakes with Raspberry Sauce

July 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Everyone loves classic strawberry shortcake, biscuits split in half and filled with whipped cream and strawberries macerated in sugar until the fruit surrenders its juice and becomes wonderfully saucy. These shortcakes are all that and more. For extra decadence, I've added vanilla ice cream to the mix and orange liqueur to the maceration. And there's a raspberry sauce topping---good on plain ice cream or toasted poundcake (or the two together) as well.

Wrapped well, the biscuits can be frozen for many months so make extra. They are also great for breakfast with butter and jam or marmalade.

You can make the sauce with fresh raspberries (or even strawberries) if you prefer but frozen ones work wonderfully here and are less expensive. I try to always have a bag or two in my freezer.

Strawberry Short Cakes with Raspberry Sauce

Serves 6-7

Ingredients

Shortcakes:

1 teaspoon fine salt
2 3/4 cups pastry or cake flour
1/4 cup sugar plus additional to sprinkle on top
4 teaspoons baking powder
10 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon-pieces
1 cup heavy cream plus additional to brush on top
coarse sugar (regular sugar may be substituted) for sprinkling on top
of filling
4 heaping cups fresh strawberries, stemmed and thickly sliced
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons Kirsch, Framboise or Grand Marnier
1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
2 pint best quality vanilla ice cream
1/2 cup COLD heavy cream whipped with 1 teaspoon sugar

For Raspberry Sauce:

2 bags frozen raspberries (or strawberries), thawed
1/2 cup sugar (or more to taste)
a pinch of salt
finely grated zest plus the juice of one lemon

Method

Shortcakes:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
In a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the flour, 1/4 cup sugar, baking powder, and salt with a few pulses. Add the chilled butter and pulse just until combined. With the motor running, pour the cream through the feed tube, stopping just before the dough forms a ball.
Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and form into a ball. Do not overwork. Gently roll out the dough to a round 3/4 inch thick. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter or glass, cut out 6-7 circles. (Knead the scraps together and reroll as required.)
Arrange the dough circles on the prepared baking tray, brush the tops with cream and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Bake 22-30 minutes, or until the cakes are golden and firm to the touch. Cool on a wire rack.
Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, toss the sliced berries together with the sugar, lemon juice, liqueur, and orange zest. Set aside.
When ready to serve, split each shortcake in half and warm slightly in a 350 oven.
For each serving, place the bottom half of the shortcake on a dessert plate. Top the cake with a large scoop of ice cream, and arrange strawberries over and around the ice cream, drizzling with the strawberry juices, and top with the remaining half of the cake. Add a dollop of whipped cream on the side of the plate.

Raspberry Sauce:

Boil about ten minutes — stirring frequently — until the berries have lost their shape completely and the sauce tastes good. Cool. Store in the fridge for up to two weeks.

June 2024 - Roast Halibut or Cod with Mixed Citrus Vierge

June 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

This flavorful, beautiful dish can be served hot, warm or room temperature and thus is great all year 'round. Nonetheless I serve it most often in summer. It's a refreshing main course in hot weather and so convenient for the cook to have made it ahead and be able to visit with guests. The flavors and colors of the various citrus fruits create a delicious melange. And once sprinkled with herbs, the fish is beautiful as well.

The citrus is flexible. If you have more of one thing or another, feel free to substitute. It will still be great. I like to serve rice or grain salad alongside in summer. If the fish is served hot, polenta is a good accompaniment as are mashed potatoes, wild rice or rice pilaf. I also love whole wheat couscous with almost anything.

If you're one of those people whose only fish is salmon, the Vierge is good with salmon as well, all that acid cutting the fatty fish.

Roast Halibut or Cod with Mixed Citrus Vierge

Serves 8

Ingredients

2 pink grapefruits, one zested and then both cut into supremes
2 blood oranges, cut into supremes (if unavailable, substitute 2 navel oranges or 4 clementines or tangerines)
2 navel oranges, 1 zested and then both cut into supremes
Juice of 1 large lime or more to taste
Juice of 1 large lemon or more to taste
1 large red onion, sliced into paper thin rings or half rings
1 fresh fennel bulb, thinly sliced
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and finely minced or pressed through a garlic press
1 cup or more mixed chopped fresh chives, basil, cilantro, and/or mint—best to use all—and LOTS of cilantro
2-3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 ½-4 pounds cod, hake or halibut fillets---approximately 1/3 pound per person OR use one large piece of fish fillet.
olive oil mixed with chopped garlic, salt and pepper to rub on fish ahead of time

Method

Mix together all the Vierge ingredients, reserving half the herbs for later use. Set aside and preheat the oven to its highest setting (500-550F). Put a metal baking pan (with sides no higher than about 2 inches) in the oven large enough to hold the fish pieces with plenty of room around each one so the fish bakes and does not steam
Rub the fish with the mixture of olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper
When the oven is hot, lay the fish pieces in the pan at least two inches apart. They will sizzle.
Bake 15-25 minutes until done. The fish is done (perfectly flaky) when it just begins to ooze opaque white juices that will mix in the pan with the oil that is already there
When done, transfer the fish to a large platter. This dish can be served hot, warm or room temperature. When ready to serve, top with the Citrus Vierge and sprinkle with the reserved herbs

May 2024 - Whole Artichokes With Curry-Shallot Vinaigrette

May 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

I adore artichokes of any sort but this easy preparation is one of my favorites. It's the season again so take advantage!! I used to boil them but now prefer steaming. I find it to be easier and the artichokes end up less water-logged. You can cook them a day or two in advance if you prefer. Just refrigerate covered after cooling and bring back to room temperature to serve.

For those of you who prefer your artichokes hot, serve them immediately with hot melted lemon butter (with or without the addition of a minced fresh herb and/or minced garlic).

Note: Once you've made this divine vinaigrette, I'm sure you'll find other uses for it. I like it with room temperature chicken, fish or shellfish and on almost any sandwich.

Whole Artichokes With Curry-Shallot Vinaigrette

Serves 4

Time: Approximately 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the Curry-Shallot Vinaigrette:

1 cup finely minced shallots
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup minced chives
¼ cup minced parsley
¼ cup minced tarragon
salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon mild curry powder
1 large pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup olive oil. Whisk thoroughly. Let sit 15 minutes, then adjust seasonings to taste. Whisk again before serving

Artichokes:

4 medium or large globe artichokes

Method

Combine all of the Vinaigrette ingredients in a bowl and whisk thoroughly. Let sit 15 minutes, then adjust seasonings to taste. Whisk again before serving
Trim the artichokes and place them stem-side up in a lidded pot large enough to comfortably hold them in one layer.
Add about an inch and a half of salted water to the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover pot and simmer until outer leaves can easily be pulled off, 25-35 minutes (depending on size of artichoke). Add more water if needed.
Serve artichokes room temperature with individual ramekins or small bowls of curry-shallot vinaigrette or room-temperature mayonnaise.

April 2024 - Green Pea Hummus

April 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Spring is the time to celebrate green peas. I've been meaning to share this GREEN PEA HUMMUS recipe ever since I concocted it last summer after tasting the LOAVES and FISHES version at a dinner party in Bridgehampton. So now that it's April and I still haven't done it, here goes. I have no idea how close my version is to the original as I had no recipe to follow but I'm very happy with it.

People seem to love it and I've had many requests for the recipe. Make extra as it freezes well (see note below).

Green Pea Hummus

Ingredients

400-gram can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed in cool water. Drain again well
1 16-ounce bag frozen peas, thawed
6 large garlic cloves (more or less to taste)
5 tablespoon tahini
Juice of 2 lemons plus optional zest
4-6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh coriander or parsley leaves—optional
1 teaspoon salt or more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or more to tasteMethod

Method

Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz until smooth.
Taste and adjust any quantities if necessary. You can add extra lemon juice, olive oil, salt, tahini, garlic or fresh herbs.

NOTE: this hummus freezes well. Thaw to use but the hummus may be a bit grainy. Best to re-blitz with a bit of olive oil. And re-adjust seasonings.

March 2024 - Peanut Sauce Glazed Chicken Pan Roast

March 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

PEANUT SAUCE GLAZED CHICKEN PAN ROAST

with Ginger, Garlic and Sesame

About the Recipe

This recipe for glazed chicken thighs with peanut sauce is a mishmash combination of several recipes I've experimented with over the years. This is (at least currently) my favorite version. It is completely delicious.

You can make the peanut sauce weeks ahead and keep refrigerated. I usually double or triple the recipe as I make these chicken thighs a lot. Once the sauce is made, the recipe takes 15 minutes or less of active work time.

I serve this dish with rice or sesame noodles or even simple wholewheat couscous (not the traditional accompaniment and mixing cuisines but delicious and easy).

If you have some time, make Vietnamese Summer Rolls (last month's RECIPE OF THE MONTH) for a first course.

A good and easy dessert is an assortment of tropical flavored ice creams (Haagan Daz makes delicious MANGO and COCONUT-PINEAPPLE ice creams) and sorbets and a platter of tropical fruits--I usually slice up mango, pineapple and banana.

Enjoy.

Peanut Sauce Glazed Chicken Pan Roast with Ginger, Garlic and Sesame

Yields 8-10 servings

Ingredients

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
4 teaspoons kosher salt plus more as needed
4 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger
8 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
5-6 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 recipe Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce (see below)
2 tablespoons neutral oil
4 scallions, thinly sliced and ¼ cup cilantro chopped for garnish

Method

Mix together sesame oil, salt, ginger and garlic. Add 4 tablespoons of the peanut dipping sauce and smear mixture all over the chicken and underneath the skin. Use it all. Place in a lidded container or large ziplock bag and refrigerate at least an hour and up to 48 hours. 2-3 hours before baking, remove chicken from refrigerator and place on a rimmed baking sheet. You can line the baking sheet with parchment to make clean-up easier, but it’s not necessary.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Drizzle chicken with the neutral oil. Roast until the chicken is golden brown and the juices run clear when the thickest part of the thigh is pricked with a fork, 30 to 40 minutes or less and about 158 on a thermometer. Can broil briefly to crisp up if needed.
Transfer chicken to a serving platter and carefully pour any pan juices on the baking sheet into the bowl with the peanut sauce. Whisk until combined. Taste the sauce and add more soy sauce, vinegar or hoisin if you’d like.
Drizzle or brush some of the peanut sauce all over chicken pieces, reserving some sauce for serving. Garnish with scallions and cilantro and serve with reserved peanut sauce.

Vietnamese Peanut Dipping Sauce

Ingredients

4 tbsp neutral cooking oil
8 cloves garlic minced
10 tbsp hoisin sauce
4 tbsp smooth peanut butter or tahini or a mixture
1 cup water
2 tsp sambal chile paste or or Chinese chili paste

February 2024 - Shrimp Summer Rolls

February 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

SHRIMP SUMMER ROLLS

with Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

About the Recipe

I've been serving these shrimp summer rolls for 30 years and this recipe for them is still the best I've found. Perfect for Make-ahead. Make the filling a day or two in advance and the spicy dipping sauce weeks ahead. Assemble the rolls earlier in the day, or if your party is on the casual side, have everyone join in and make their own as we do in class. It's an ice-breaking activity (if that sort of thing is still a thing) and lots of fun!

Although they are called SUMMER ROLLS, I love them all year long. They're a perfect light lunch or serve them — as I often do — as a first course before a more elaborate Asian meal. People ADORE them. Toss any leftover filling together with leftover dipping sauce for a great salad.

Summer Rolls

Makes 16 rolls, serving 8 as an appetizer

Time: Approximately 30 minutes.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola
8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
4 ounces Asian vermicelli noodles
3/4 pound cooked, shelled and roughly chopped shrimp (roughly chopped cooked chicken or roast pork may be substituted)
1/2 head Napa cabbage or 1 whole head soft lettuce such as Boston, finely shredded
4 medium carrots, peeled and shredded or coarsely grated
1 large bunch cilantro, chopped (save stems for the dipping sauce)
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped
8 whole scallions, cut in paper thin rounds
1 ½ tablespoons ground coriander
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
16 sheets 22 centimeters round or square rice paper (banh tang)
1 recipe Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce (below)

Method

In a medium skillet, heat the oil and fry the garlic until golden, about 5 minutes. Off heat stir in the shrimp and set aside.
Soak the vermicelli in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain noodles and cook in boiling water, stirring frequently to break up the clumps, until al dente, 2-3 minutes.
Drain cooked noodles and refresh under cold water. Drain again and set aside.
In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage or lettuce, carrots, cilantro, mint, scallions, ground coriander, garlicky shrimp and cooked vermicelli. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Immerse one rice paper at a time in a warm-hot water, Watch for it to begin curling, then immediately flip it over and continue flipping until it is just softened, 30-60 seconds. Use both hands to pull it up out of the water, being careful it doesn't collapse on itself or tear, and spread it immediately on a damp kitchen towel.
Place 1/16 of the filling mixture (3-4 tablespoons) near the top of the wet wrapper. Roll the top end tightly over the filling and then fold in the sides. Finish rolling till closed and snug. The final product will look like a small burrito.
Continue this way until all 16 are finished. They can wait covered with a damp towel until ready to serve, up to 3 hours.
To serve, cut each in half horizontally and serve 4 halves per person accompanied by Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce.

Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

Makes approximately 1 ½ cups

Time: Active time: 10 minutes plus cooling time

Ingredients

Cilantro stems reserved from the filling, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola
1 cup minus 3 tablespoons (13 tablespoons) unseasoned rice wine vinegar (white wine vinegar may be substituted)
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons Asian Red Pepper Paste or Garlic Chili Paste
1/2 cup sugar
2-3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or more to taste

Method

In a medium saucepan, saute chopped cilantro stems and garlic in the oil until very fragrant and garlic is beginning to color, about 5 minutes.
Add vinegar, fish sauce, paste, and sugar and simmer until the sugar has dissolved, 3-5 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Add lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning—fish sauce, salt and pepper-- before serving.

January 2024 - Bananas Foster

January 1, 2024Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Bananas Foster is an ideal comfort food for cold-weather January. A counterpart to weeks of too much fancy holiday fare, this rustic dessert is a nursery pudding beloved by adults due to the addition of copious alcohol.

My ex-husband Willy grew up in New Orleans. Though not much of a cook, he made fabulous Bananas Foster. By over-caramelizing the bananas with lots of butter, sugar and an extravagant amount of dark rum, he turned the more refined dessert of his youth (white rum, white sugar and less darkly caramelized) into something wildly flavorful and robust. He eliminated the banana liqueur as unnecessary and a bit prissy, but I like it. If curious, add 2 tablespoons for each cup of dark rum.

And do make extra. People always want seconds. And if they don't, extra sauce keeps in the fridge for several days. Reheated, it's good on pancakes, waffles and French toast as well as on more ice cream.

BANANAS FOSTER

Serves 8

Ingredients:

1 cup unsalted butter
8 bananas, peeled, sliced in half lengthwise and then each piece in half crosswise
1 3/4 cups dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
large pinch sea salt
1 cup dark rum (such as Meyer’s)
2 tablespoons banana liqueur (optional)
2 pints best quality vanilla ice cream

Method

1. In a large skillet set over medium heat, melt the butter and then add the bananas in one layer.
Sprinkle with the sugar, cinnamon and salt. After the first side browns and begins to caramelize (about 1 minute), use a spatula to gently turn and brown the second side. Turn a few more times until the sugar melts and the sauce thickens and caramelizes. Don’t let it burn, but short of burning the more sticky and caramelized, the better.
Turn off the heat but leave the skillet on the burner. Stir in 1/4 cup of the rum being careful not to break up the bananas.
Meanwhile warm the rum in a small saucepan over medium heat. Pour the warmed rum carefully over the bananas and ignite with a match. Shake pan and stir until all the flames die out. Be careful not to catch anything on fire.
Serve in dessert bowls over or under vanilla ice cream.

December 2023 - Baked Alaska

December 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

December is a month full of festive occasions, and Baked Alaska is a wildly festive dessert, Defined by freezing ice cream on the inside and toasty, chewy —gooey meringue on the exterior — it's unique. The cake and the meringue serve as insulators, protecting a frozen filling from the heat of a hot oven. In the "olden days" (the late 1950s and 60s when my mother was in the kitchen, for extra insulation, a sheet of heavy brown paper was placed on the cookie sheet under the cake layer. Now, however, home freezers are much colder and double protection is no longer necessary. In fact, sometimes I find the ice cream still hard as a rock post-oven and must wait a few minutes before it can be cut.

For me, the combination of coffee ice cream and a dark rum drizzle on the cake is perfection, but options are endless. Hard to go wrong. Lemon custard ice cream with a limoncello drizzle is not at all bad. Ditto the classic combination of vanilla ice cream with sliced very ripe peaches,plums or apricots or fresh berries between the cake and the ice cream. You can also experiment with layering more than one ice cream flavor and;/or include a layer of sorbet.

You can make the cake ahead, drizzle with liquor, top with ice cream, wrap well and freeze for up to 3.months. Preheat your oven before dinner and when time for dessert, just whip up your meringue, swirl it over the ice cream and bake 3-5 minutes until the meringue peaks are deeply golden..That's all there is to it. Voila. It's literally my favorite dessert on the planet.

BAKED ALASKA

Serves 12-18

Ingredients:

For the Cake Base:

All ingredients should be room temperature
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 sticks unsalted butter
2 cups sugar
6 large eggs
2 tablespoons vanilla extract
3 tablespoons liqueur (if using)

For the Ice Cream Layer:

5 pints best quality coffee ice cream

For the Meringue:

8 egg whites at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 cups sugar plus 2 tablespoons for sprinkling
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Method

For the Cake Base:

Preheat oven to 350F
Butter, flour and line 2 10-inch cake pans
Stir dry ingredients together and set aside
Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy
Add eggs, one at a time, and then the vanilla. Beat well, then add dry ingredients and beat just until combined.
Divide batter between two 10-inch cake pans and bake just until a toothpick inserted into the centers comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes and invert onto wire rack. Cool completely.
- Use one for the recipe above. Once cool, the second layer can be wrapped in plastic wrap and then foil and stored almost indefinitely in the freezer for your next Baked Alaska.

For the Ice Cream Layer:

Soften the ice cream and freeze in a metal bowl with a diameter an inch or two smaller than the cake layer. Cover the ice cream with foil and then foil and freeze until very hard, preferably at least 6 hours and up to 4 weeks.

When Ready to Serve:

Preheat the oven to 450 or 500 F
Place the room temperature egg whites and the salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. With the whisk in place, mix on low speed until frothy. Add the cream of tartar and mix on medium speed until soft peaks form. While mixing add the sugar in a slow steady stream and raise the speed to high. Beat until the egg whites are stiff but not dry. Add the vanilla and mix to blend.
Place the frozen cake on a heatproof oval platter large enough to hold it. Drizzle with the liqueur, if using, and sprinkle with the granulated sugar.
Unmold the ice cream and place on top of the cake making sure the cake border is even all around the ice cream. Using a spatula, decoratively swirl ALL the meringue over the cake and ice cream, running the meringue down to the platter. Make sure the cake and ice cream are completely sealed in by the meringue.
Sprinkle the last two tablespoons of sugar over the meringue and IMMEDIATELY place in the upper third of the oven. Cook until lightly browned, about 3-5 minutes. Watch carefully. Serve immediately before the ice cream melts.

November 2023 - Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Simple Couscous

November 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

I love Moroccan food and for me, there's nothing better than a really good tagine. This one is spectacular. Because I've taught this recipe a number of times in class, I've come to realize that many (most?) people think you need special equipment, i.e. a ceramic tagine dish, to create a proper tagine.This is absolutely not the case and a heavy casserole or Dutch oven will seamlessly do the trick.

November is the month when holiday guests and extra busy-ness kick into gear. This recipe is great for a crowd. And even better, once cooled completely and defatted, it freezes perfectly. Just defrost and re-heat when needed.

There are a lot of ingredients, but once you have them, the recipe itself is not hard. Sometimes I brown the chicken pieces in a separate skillet or use a separate skillet in addition to the casserole to get things going a bit faster.

An added perk is that it tasted better made up to 4 days in advance. Like soups and stews (it is in fact a stew) tagines improve when the flavors have a couple of days to come together. This one can be prepared up to 4 days ahead. Refrigerate when cool. Then bring to room temperature and reheat slowly to serve.

Couscous takes five minutes to make once the water comes to a boil though I usually make it about 15 minutes ahead and let stand till I'm ready. Covered, it will stay hot for at least 30 minutes. Fluff it as best you can with a couple of forks but sadly, unless you are some sort of miracle worker, you won't get rid of every single lump so don't worry about them.

MOROCCAN CHICKEN TAGINE with SIMPLE COUSCOUS

Serves 12

Ingredients:

For the Chicken Tagine:

2 large onions, finely minced (can use 10 cloves minced garlic instead)
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons ground ginger or 4 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
3 teaspoons salt
4 teaspoons ground turmeric
4 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
5-6 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
5 tablespoons olive oil
4 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon sugar
2 1/2-5 cups homemade chicken stock or cups best store-bought chicken stock or use ROAST CHICKEN BETTER THAN BOUILLION (Better than Bouillion is preferable to most canned or packaged chicken stocks)
1 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
30 Moroccan, Greek, Calamata or other pitted imported black olives, cut in half vertically if large
4 preserved lemons, seeded and cut into thin slivers
2 15-16 ounce cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
2 bunches chopped cilantro
1 cup chopped pitted dates, divided
1/3 cup toasted chopped or slivered almonds and more cilantro to sprinkle over the top

For the Couscous:

3 cups couscous (regular or whole wheat)
4 cups water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 teaspoons salt or more to taste
1 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper or more to taste
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or to taste

Method

For the Chicken Tagine:

Combine all the spice mixture ingredients in a bowl large enough to comfortably hold chicken pieces.
Add chicken and toss to coat well. This can be done up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large casserole. Brown chicken in batches, placing the pieces back in the bowl as browned. Add more oil as needed.
Add the sliced onions and the sugar to the pan, adding a little more oil if necessary and cook, stirring often for 10 minutes. Add the chicken back to the pan and continue to cook and stir until the onions turn gold, approximately 5-10 minutes more.
Add the stock and the saffron. Bring to a boil and then immediately reduce the heat to simmer. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim off the fat.
After 30 minutes, add the olives, lemon and ½ cup of the chopped dates. Cover and simmer 30 minutes more or cook uncovered if the sauce seems too thin. Skim off the fat. Add more stock if the sauce is too thick. Chicken should be very tender and almost falling apart. If it is not, recover and simmer until it is. Add the chickpeas and remaining dates and cook another few minutes until everything is heated through
***At this point, you can let the tagine cool uncovered and then cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. When ready to serve, remove any fat that has congealed on the surface, bring to room temperature, leave uncovered and reheat on top of the stove, over medium low heat, stirring often or in a 300F oven, stirring occasionally. Continue with recipe:***
When ready, serve over couscous (recipe below) or rice and sprinkle with the cilantro and chopped almonds. Or pass the condiments separately.

For the Couscous:

Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan along with the oil and the salt. Stir in the couscous. When the water comes back to the boil, cover and take the pot off the heat. Let sit at least 5 minutes.
When ready to serve, fluff couscous with a fork and break up lumps. Adjust seasonings

October 2023 - Classic Caesar Salad

October 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Almost everyone loves a good Caesar Salad. For anchovy-haters you can omit the anchovies and use 1 tablespoon of Worcestershire Sauce instead of 1 teaspoon. However, it won't be the same.

I find that sometimes dressing on a Caesar salad is too thick and gloppy and sometimes (but less frequently) too thin. For me, this one is ideal, perfectly balanced. I've been making it for years with great results. If you try it, let me know what you think.

CLASSIC CAESAR SALAD

Serves 6-8 as a first course

Ingredients:

For the Salad:

2 very large heads or 4 smaller romaine lettuce, outer leaves removed if not crunchy. At least 4 hours before serving, slice each head into ½ inch slices and then wash and dry in a salad spinner. Refrigerate in a kitchen towel until ready to use.
3/4 cups garlic flavored extra virgin olive oil (steep oil overnight with 3 cloves of crushed garlic)
12 or more to taste oil-packed anchovy fillets, minced
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 scant teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Dash of cayenne pepper or Tabasco Sauce
3 eggs at room temperature
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup grated Italian Parmesan

For the Croutons:

8 slices stale bread (French or Italian) crusts removed if desired, cut into approximate 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 cup garlic oil (see above)
salt and pepper to taste

Method

For the Salad:

1. Mix 1/2 cup garlic oil together with the anchovies, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, pepper and cayenne. Set aside. This can be done up to 24 hours in advance.
When ready to serve, toss the chilled prepared romaine in a salad bowl with the oil mixture.
Beat the eggs and pour on top of the romaine, pour the lemon juice over and toss well. Toss in the Parmesan and croutons and check for salt. Because of all the anchovies you probably won’t need any but you might. Serve immediately.

For the Croutons:

Toss cubed bread with 1/4 cup garlic oil, salt and pepper and spread on a baking sheet.
Bake in a 350F oven, turning occasionally, until golden, about 20 minutes.
Cool on paper towels.
*The croutons may be made several days in advance and kept airtight once cooled

September 2023 - Grilled Marinated Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Fresh Mint Mayonnaise

September 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

GRILLED BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB

with Fresh Mint Mayonnaise

About the Recipe

Take advantage of outdoor grilling while the weather still allows it. This lamb is ideal cooked outside though also delicious grilled indoors or broiled. I make it all year long and frequently. Butterflied leg of lamb provides deliciousness without the hassle of the bone with the added perk that once butterflied, the meat varies in thickness and thus offers the perfect doneness for every palate

Fresh Mint Mayonnaise is a lovely twist on the classic combination of mint and lamb. It's super easy in a blender or food processor and leftovers are great on almost any sandwich or served alongside grilled or roast chicken or fish. It also makea a great shrimp or crab dip.

GRILLED BUTTERFLIED LEG OF LAMB WITH HOMEMADE FRESH MINT MAYONNAISE

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

For the leg of lamb:

4 pounds boned and butterflied leg of lamb
2/3 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped parsley
3 crumbled bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano (optional)
2 cups thinly sliced onions
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
salt and pepper to taste

For the mint mayonnaise:

1 large egg
1 teaspoon salt or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, preferably white
1-1/2 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or more to taste
1 large clove garlic
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 to 1-1/4 cups oil — half unflavored vegetable oil (such as corn, canola or peanut) and half olive oil
1/2 to 1 cup fresh mint leaves

Method

For the leg of lamb:

Mix the marinade ingredients together and marinate the meat (refrigerated and turning occasionally) for at least 12, preferably 24, hours.
Take out of the refrigerator 4-6 hours before grilling. When ready to cook, salt the meat and place it fat side down on a hot broiler or grill. Cook for 10 minutes and then turn with tongs and moisten with more marinade. The onions may burn a bit but are still delicious. Cook 5 minutes more and then check for doneness. If not done to your liking, continue to cook until it is, turning and moistening occasionally with marinade. Let rest ten minutes before serving along with the onions.

For the mint mayonnaise:

Process the room temperature egg, salt, pepper, lemon juice, garlic, and mustard in a food processor or blender until combined.
With the motor running, add the mixed oils, a few drops at a time. After about 1/3 of the oil has been added, add the remaining oil in a very slow steady stream.
Add the mint and pulse till just combined
Adjust salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Leftovers can be stored in the fridge for at least a week.

August 2023 - 5 No-Cook Sauces for Summer Grilling

August 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Grilling over an open fire helps define summer. Nonetheless, by August the novelty has waned a bit and I look for something extra to enhance my flame-kissed proteins and vegetables. Over the years, I've developed a repertoire of quick, highly flavorful, no-cook sauces—from vinaigrettes to fresh salsas to creamy dressings—that dramatically enliven any cookout.. I frequently put out a selection of these condiments and let guests pick and choose.

Here are five of my favorites, most of them completely makeable in the food processor and, conveniently, improved if prepared up to several days in advance. The old-fashioned Thousand Island dressing is a blush-colored amalgam of mayonnaise, chili sauce, ketchup and an assortment of flavor- and texture-enhancing add-ins (minced olives, dill, horseradish, bell pepper). My mother was given the recipe below in the 1950s, by the chef at Lake Tahoe's then-legendary Brockway Hotel, where the dressing typically adorned wedges of iceberg lettuce. These days, I prefer it with platters of grilled vegetables, chicken and fish or on a sandwich.

Delicious with fish, especially swordfish and salmon, is the cucumber-dill sauce. Nothing more than sour cream—or Greek yogurt, if you prefer—brightened with dill, chives, vinegar and crunchy cucumber, it's a staple in my fridge all summer long. Hailing from Syria and considerably more piquant is the muhammara, a red pepper dip enriched with ground walnuts and sweetened with pomegranate molasses. I generously slather this rustic condiment on all sorts of things, my favorite being garlicky grilled peasant bread.

Another enticingly sweet-spicy combination—this one including ginger, honey, garlic and toasted sesame oil—the peanut sauce pairs well with Asian preparations. The same is true of the mango-mint chutney, which is also a good match for many Mexican-style dishes. Its mingling of mango, citrus and cilantro is so refreshing that I even serve it on its own as a salad. Unlike the other sauces here, it is best used the day it is made.

OLD-FASHIONED THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING

Makes 2 Cups

In a small bowl, combine 1 cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup chili sauce, ¼ cup ketchup, 1½ tablespoons minced pitted black olives, 2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley, 2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish, 2 teaspoons sweet relish, 1 large shallot, finely minced, 2 tablespoons finely minced green bell pepper, 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh dill, 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 1 teaspoon sea salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Let rest at least 30 minutes before serving. Dressing can be stored, refrigerated, up to 4 days.

*Try it with: grilled vegetables, chicken, shrimp, scallops, hamburgers

CUCUMBER-DILL SAUCE

Makes 4 Cups

In a medium bowl, combine 2 cups sour cream or plain Greek yogurt, 1 medium red onion, finely minced, ¼ cup minced chives, ½ cup finely minced fresh dill, 4 tablespoons Champagne or white-wine vinegar, a few drops of Tabasco and sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste. Refrigerate at least 1 hour. When ready to serve, stir in 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice, and adjust seasoning as needed. Sauce can be stored, refrigerated, up to 3 days.

*Try it with: grilled salmon, swordfish and shrimp; baked potatoes

FRESH MANGO-MINT CHUTNEY

Makes 7-1/2 Cups

In a large bowl, combine 2 large mangoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice, 1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, ¾ cup julienned fresh mint, ½ cup finely minced red onion, ½ jalapeño, ribs and seeds removed, finely minced, juice and zest of 2 limes and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Let rest at least 1 hour at room temperature. Adjust seasoning as needed and serve. Chutney can be stored, refrigerated, 3 days, but is best if consumed the same day it is made.

*Try it with: grilled tofu, pork and duck; seared tuna

MUHAMMARA

Makes 3 Cups

In a food processor, combine 1½ cups walnuts, ½ cup breadcrumbs or crumbled sesame crackers, 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, ½ teaspoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon sugar and salt to taste. Blend until smooth. Add a 28-ounce can roasted sweet red bell peppers, drained, and blend until creamy. With motor running, add 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a steady stream. Add ½ teaspoon red chili paste and pulse to incorporate. Refrigerate overnight. To serve, let sauce come to room temperature and garnish with ground cumin and olive oil. Muhammara can be stored, refrigerated, up to 1 week.

*Try it with: grilled lamb kebabs, duck, pork, fish and even bread

PEANUT SAUCE

Makes 2-1/4 Cups

In a food processor or blender, combine 1 cup creamy peanut butter, 3 cloves garlic, 2 tablespoons peeled and coarsely chopped ginger, zest and juice of 1 large lime, large pinch of cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoons honey, 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil, 2-4 tablespoons light coconut milk or water, as needed to reach desired texture, and salt to taste. Process on high speed until smooth. Add 1/3 cup chopped cilantro and pulse to combine. Sauce can be stored, refrigerated, up to 1 week.

*Try it with: grilled chicken, fish, seafood, pork; soba-noodle salad, raw vegetables

July 2023 - Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs with Ginger-Lemongrass Vinaigrette

July 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

I tasted my first soft-shell crab on the porch of a Chesapeake Bay seafood shack on a June afternoon in the early 1970's. This new treat was sweet, briny, complex and even more succulent than the hard-shell kind—plus, no need for crackers and bibs.

The soft-shell is actually the very same species that is harvested, cracked and eaten around the Chesapeake and the Gulf of Mexico at other times of year—the blue crab or Callinectes sapidus.

For years I imagined soft-shell crabs to be restaurant-only fare, but when a friend effortlessly fried up a platterfull in his own kitchen, I realized how easy they are to prepare at home. And the season is NOW.

Soft-shells should be alive when purchased, kept on ice in the fridge until ready to cook and used that same day. My fishmonger cleans the crabs for me, but you can use scissors to snip off the mouth, eyes, gills and the flat abdominal apron yourself before cooking, if you like.

I love the marine delicacy accompanied with ginger-lemongrass vinaigrette and cilantro. But the crabs can be served a million ways. They make a divine sandwich on a toasted bun along with crispy bacon, tomato, avocado watercress and homemade mayo or tartar sauce.

A last tip: be sure not to undercook them.

SAUTÉED SOFT-SHELL CRAB with GINGER-LEMONGRASS VINAIGRETTE

Serves 4 as a first course, 2 as a main course

Ingredients:

For the ginger-lemongrass vinaigrette:

For the ginger-lemongrass vinaigrette:
1/4 cup rice vinegar
2-1/2 tablespoons lime juice
5 teaspoons maple syrup
1/3 cup smashed and coarsely chopped fresh lemongrass
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
1 large clove garlic, coarsely chopped
1-1/2 teaspoons chili paste
1-1/2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoons soy sauce or Vietnamese fish sauce
1/2 cup canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the crabs:

1/4 cup flour (preferably superfine flour, such as Wondra)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil, such as canola
Chopped chives and/or cilantro, for garnish

Method

Make vinaigrette: Place all ingredients except canola oil, salt and pepper in a blender or food processor and blend until very smooth. In slow, steady stream, pour oil into blender. With motor off, add salt and pepper to taste. Let sit at least 15 minutes before using. (Dressing can be refrigerated up to 3 days.)
Meanwhile, prepare crabs: In a bowl, mix flour with salt and pepper. Sift flour over crabs, coating both sides.
Sauté crabs: Heat oil in a nonstick skillet large enough to hold all crabs, over high heat. (If necessary to avoid crowding pan, cook in batches.) When oil begins to smoke, add crabs, top-side down. Sauté crabs until brown and crisp, 3-4 minutes per side. If working in batches, set cooked crabs aside and repeat with remaining crabs.
To serve, spoon about 3 tablespoons vinaigrette onto the centers of 4 dinner plates. Split each crab in half lengthwise and place over vinaigrette. Garnish with chopped cilantro and/or chives.

June 2023 - Classic Individual Chocolate Soufflés

June 1, 2023Gail Monaghan

About the Recipe

Everyone loves soufflés, especially huge, decadent chocolate ones. However, I like individually portioned chocolate soufflés even better. And better than that when they're oversized. And best of all when sauced with melty ice cream.

Made correctly, soufflés—light and fluffy baked concoctions founded on an egg yolk and beaten eggs white base—possess a delicate, ethereal texture particularly suited to spring. Just the thought of these airy culinary miracles confounds many cooks, but their preparation is actually easy to get the hang of. And chocolate soufflés (which don't require making an initial roux and are flourless — for all of you gluten-free-ers out there) are the easiest of all. To intensify the flavor of the chocolate for an ever richer flavor, add 2 teaspoons of instant espresso powder when melting the butter with the chocolate.

CLASSIC INDIVIDUAL CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉS

Serves 8

Ingredients:

Approximately 3 tablespoons unsalted butter and 4 tablespoons granulated sugar to prepare the molds
8 ounces best quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2/3 cup plus 4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup warm milk
6 egg yolks
8 egg whites at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Method

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Generously butter and then sugar eight 1-1/4 cup ramekins, soufflé molds or little charlottes.
Melt chocolate in a double boiler over low heat. When chocolate is melted, remove the pan from the heat.
Whisk in the 2/3 cup sugar and the milk until the mixture is smooth. Then whisk in yolks, one at a time, until no traces of yolk remain.
To finish the soufflés: Whisk the room temperature egg whites with salt and cream of tartar, preferably in an electric mixer with a whisk attachment in place. Start beating on low speed and raise the speed gradually as the egg whites mount. When whites are opaque and beginning to stiffen, very gradually add remaining sugar and continue to beat until soft (not super stiff) peaks form.
Stir a quarter of beaten whites into the chocolate mixture and then use a large silicone spatula to gently fold the lightened chocolate into the remaining whites.
Ladle batter into prepared molds, set them on a baking sheet and place them on the middle rack of the preheated oven. Immediately reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees and bake for 20-25 minutes or until a knife blade inserted into the middle of a soufflé comes out clean. If you like your soufflés creamy at the center, remove them from the oven a bit sooner. Serve immediately.
Accompany with whipped cream or melty vanilla or coffee ice cream and/or chocolate sauce if desired.