GRAVLAX
About the Recipe
My love of all things salmon began in early childhood. In Beverly Hills where I grew up, Sunday mornings meant trekking off to Nate ‘n Al’s and stuffing myself with enough lox, bagels, and cream cheese to last until dinner and beyond.
The deli’s lox — salted, lightly cold-smoked Nova Scotia salmon---was scrumptious. As time passed, however, I encountered the usually-less-salty Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian smoked salmons and liked them even better; but their cost relegated them to the “special occasion food” category.
And then, voila---at a Stockholm restaurant in the early ‘nineties--gravlax, a palate-pleasing revelation. I never looked back. The thinly sliced, rosily orange fish looked like smoked salmon, but its meltingly tender texture and cleaner taste were new. I learned that preparing this delicacy was smoke-free child’s play: refrigerating very fresh salmon fillet for a couple of days after smothering it in salt, sugar and abundant fresh dill, something even a kitchen novice can manage at home in ten minutes or less and inexpensively to boot.
My guests marvel nonstop and devour it enthusiastically whether it’s served as an hors d'oeuvre, elegant starter, sandwich filling, brunch fare, or light main course. Toasts and a sweet mustard-dill sauce are the traditional accompaniments. Though I sometimes present the exquisite filet as a one-man show, offering it with nothing but cracked pepper, chopped dill and a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice or champagne vinegar.
Its versatility makes gravlax ideal for the upcoming holiday season. One recipe will provide a cocktail accompaniment for a huge crowd or a first course for several dinner parties. You may even have extra left for Sunday brunch. Whether serving gravlax naked or sauced, use only the very freshest fish to make it. Brining extends the shelf life of the salmon, but only for a few extra days, the exact length of time depending on the fish’s freshness, handling and storage. Well-wrapped and refrigerated, gravlax will last at least a week—not including the curing time. But if you smell any off odors sooner, discard it.
Gorgeous gravlax is a you-can’t-go-wrong-no-brainer. It’s perfection, unusual and the least expensive luxury food on the planet.
Gravlax
Ingredients
Serves about 20 as an hors d’oeuvres, or 12-16 as an appetizer
GRAVLAX:
Approximately 3 pounds fresh salmon filet, two 1/2 pound center cut pieces, skin on
1 large bunch of dill, washed and shaken dry
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons white peppercorns, crushed (black peppercorns can be substituted if you prefer)
2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds toasted and cooled (optional)
2 tablespoons crushed coriander seeds toasted and cooled (optional)
To Serve:
Small pumpernickel, whole wheat, rye or brioche toasts
Dill sprigs to garnish
Mustard Sauce, recipe follows
MUSTARD SAUCE
6 tablespoons honey mustard
3-4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1/2 teaspoon salt or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
METHOD
GRAVLAX:
Cut the salmon in half crosswise and place half the fish skin side down in a deep dish.
Place the dill on the fish.
Combine the salt, sugar, toasted seeds and crushed peppercorns in a small bowl and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the layer of dill.
Place the second half of salmon on top, skin side up.
Cover the dish with a lid if available--otherwise with aluminum foil.
Refrigerate the salmon for 48-72 hours, turning it a few times and basting it with the liquid that collects in the pan.
After 48 hours, slice off a piece of salmon, rinse and taste to see if it's cured to your liking. If not, wait 12 more hours and keep checking till ready. I tend to like it after 48 hours. When salmon is cured, discard the bunch of dill, and quickly rinse the marinade spices off the fish in cool water. Dry well with paper towels.
Lay the 2 pieces of salmon on a cutting board or platter and sprinkle with chopped dill. Slice the salmon in long thin slices as you would for smoked salmon. Serve with toasts and mustard sauce.
Extra salmon will keep for at least 1 week refrigerated.
MUSTARD SAUCE
Whisk mustard and vinegar in small bowl to blend.
Gradually whisk in oil. Stir in chopped dill and salt.
Season with ground black pepper.
Sauce can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill.
Alternatively, process everything but the fresh dill in a food processor or blender. When smooth, pulse in the dill. Leave the dill chopped but still visible.