SHANGHAI BEEF SHORT RIBS
with Chilies & Soy
About the Recipe
Old is once again new and scrumptious, falling-off-the-bone beef short ribs are experiencing a well-deserved revival. Call me old-fashioned, but I adore this hearty, stick-to-your-ribs dish, especially in cooler weather. This particular recipe--exotically redolent of ginger, lemongrass, and soy-- provides a titillating, comfort food pick-me-up to combat January doldrums.
Beef short ribs are characterized by drop-dead scrumptiousness and an irresistibly easy "brown, braise, defat" preparation. Long, slow cooking tenderizes the sinewy meat while fat melts away like magic. Ask your butcher for his largest, leanest, and meatiest ribs. Best of all, only the initial browning requires serious attention. The ribs then cook themselves. While simmering gently stovetop or in the oven, both the beef and its sauce-to-be absorb the essential spices and aromatics from the braising liquid which in turn is infused with the flavor released by the bones. These simultaneous processes produce a distinctly beefy richness resonating with complex layers of added flavor.
Once a defining cut-with-a-spoon doneness is achieved, defatting is child’s play. After cooling, refrigerate the ribs and their liquid for a few hours or better still, overnight or for up to a week. The fat will rise and congeal on top and can easily be removed with a spatula, an easier and more thorough method than labor-intensive simmering-and-skimming. As flavors mellow and coalesce over time, cooking these recipes in advance provides extra deliciousness and less grease. To serve, bring to room temperature and reheat (covered) in a 350-degree oven for about 25 minutes. The prepare-ahead nature of this winter crowd pleaser is a host’s dream-come-true.
Shanghai Beef Short Ribs with Chilies and Soy
Ingredients
Serves 10-12
RIBS:
5 tablespoons safflower oil
10 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for center- cut), trimmed of excess fat and cut in half (by the butcher) crosswise.
10 ounces fresh ginger (about 5 inches), thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, sliced
1/2 cup finely chopped lemongrass
2 dried Thai chilies
1 1/3 cups soy sauce
10 cups water
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
GLAZE:
1 cup hoisin sauce
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup honey
1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder
2 dried Thai chilies
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, Thai basil and/or chives for garnish
Cucumber-Radish Remoulade (optional)
CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
4 teaspoons wasabi paste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 pounds cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into 1 1/2 x 1/4-inch sticks
1 pound red radishes, trimmed and very thinly sliced
1/2 cup finely minced chives
METHOD
RIBS:
Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
Add ribs, working in batches if necessary, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Transfer ribs to a plate, leaving drippings in pot.
Reduce heat to medium, and add ginger, garlic, lemongrass, and chili. Cook until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add soy sauce, water, sugar, salt, and ribs. Cover, and gently simmer until ribs are tender, about 1 hour.
GLAZE:
Combine hoisin, garlic, tamari or soy sauce, honey, five-spice powder, chili, orange zest, and vinegar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
Preheat broiler. Remove ribs from liquid, and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.
Brush glaze all over ribs, and broil until glaze starts to bubble, about 3 minutes per side.
Transfer to a serving platter, and brush with more glaze before serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired.
Pass the Remoulade separately if using. Another great accompaniment is homemade mayonnaise flavored with garlic and lots of wasabi paste.
CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)
Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, wasabi paste and salt and pepper to taste in a large mixing bowl.
Fold in the cucumbers, radishes and half the chives. Adjust seasonings and strew the remaining chives over the top. Serve right away.