July 2021 - Sweet & Spicy Lacquered Roast Chicken

SWEET AND SPICY LACQUERED ROAST CHICKEN

About the Recipe

The Fourth of July is here again and as usual I'm thinking SUMMER PICNIC. If you are of the same mind and ready  to move on from hotdogs and hamburgers or don't have a grill or access to a bonfire, try making this divine Chinese-lacquered roast chicken. Sweet, spicy, succulent, and GORGEOUS, it is equally delicious warm or at room temperature and is verifiably wow-worthy. Ideal sides include Asian cole slaw and sesame noodles or Asian rice salad, but good old American stand-bys are fine too. The chicken is subtly rather than aggressively Chinese and pairs well with almost anything.

A bowl of fresh cherries and a platter of Chinese almond cookies and/or fortune cookies are a fun dessert - but of course a Forth-of-July watermelon is easy and always welcome. As are chocolate chip cookies and brownies.

FYI, this chicken is not only for picnics. I've served it many times — summer and winter — warm and for dinner. Everyone loves it anywhere, any time.

Happy Fourth!!!!

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Sweet & Spicy Lacquered Roast Chicken

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)

• 3 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons THICK soy sauce (in a jar and paste-like. Buy at Kalustyan's or order online. Do not use regular soy as it is too thin and will not stay on the chicken)

• 2 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns, ground in a spice grinder

• 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 

• 2 tablespoons kosher salt

• 8 cloves of peeled garlic, finely chopped 

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil

METHOD

1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil, set a rack inside it and place the chicken on the rack. Stir together the honey and dark soy sauce until the honey dissolves. Using a pastry brush or your hands, coat the chicken with an even layer of the mixture. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes to let the skin dry slightly, then brush again with all of the remaining mixture. 

2. Mix the two peppers together with the salt and pat all over the chicken. Use it all. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days.

3. Two to three hours before you plan to roast the chicken, remove it from the refrigerator. Mix the minced garlic with the oil or process them together in a food processor. Gently smear all over the chicken. Use it all. 

4. Heat the oven to 400° F. Roast the chicken for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the internal temperature at the thickest part of the breast and where the thigh meets the breast is 160°-165° F (If you don’t have a thermometer, roast it until the legs wiggle freely at their joints or snip the skin between the thigh and breast: If the liquid runs clear, it’s done). If during the roasting process the skin darkens too quickly, cover loosely with foil and continue roasting. Let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

June 2021 - Blueberry Streusel Coffee Cake

BLUEBERRY STREUSEL COFFEE CAKE

About the Recipe

Back to basics. This recipe is a simple variation on my sour cream coffee cake that incorporates mixture of walnuts or pecans, sugar and cinnamon as the filling. This version, bursting with the flavor of seasonal berries is both sweet and tart and absolutely great. I dare anyone not to love it. IF you don't like blueberries, replace them with raspberries or blackberries. Or in winter, even diced very ripe pear does the trick. 

This coffee cake, warm or at room temperature, is ideal at breakfast or brunch. However, no one has ever complained when I've served it for dessert. A la mode is great with vanilla or berry ice cream. And to really gild the lily, bake extra streusel (sprinkled on a baking sheet) until golden. Cool and use to garnish the ice cream (with or without the cake)!!!  Cooked streusel will keep for several days in an airtight container or freeze--well-wrapped-- for longer storage. Rich and crunchy streusel is surprisingly useful to have on hand to garnish custards, ice creams, oatmeal, certain baked goods, or (I hate to admit it) just to eat by the handful.

In any case, this month, with local blueberries at their peak, do try this recipe. Sometimes basic and traditional can't be improved upon.

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Blueberry Streusel Coffee Cake

Ingredients

* All ingredients should be at room temperature

FOR THE CAKE:

• ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter 

• 1 ½ cups sugar

• 3 eggs 

• 1 cup sour cream

• 1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract

• ½ teaspoon almond extract (optional) 

• 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder

• ½ teaspoon baking soda

• ½ teaspoon salt 

• 2 ½ cups CAKE flour (if you don’t have CAKE FLOUR, use white all-purpose flour but replace 2 tablespoons of it with CORNSTARCH)

FOR THE FILLING:

• 3-4 cups blueberries (I like LOTS but you may prefer fewer)

• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

• ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

• pinch of fine sea salt

FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:

• ¼ cup flour

• ¼ cup sugar

• Large pinch fine sea salt

• 4 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 4 pieces

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour a 10-inch springform pan

2. Make the streusel topping - pulse the flour, sugar, salt, and butter in the food processor until the butter is broken down into irregular lumps about the size of large peas. Set aside.

3. Cream the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time and beat well--scraping down the sides of the bowl often--for about 5 more minutes.

4. Add the vanilla and then the sour cream. Beat well, at least 5 minutes more. Batter may separate a bit. Ignore that.

5. Meanwhile, sift the 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda, ½ teaspoon salt and 2 ½ cups flour together and add to the batter. Mix just until combined. GENTLY fold in the blueberry mixture.

6. Pour the batter into the pan and smooth top.  Sprinkle evenly with the streusel.

7. Bake until done, approximately 45-60 minutes. Test with toothpick or skewer after 40 minutes but will probably take closer to an hour. Cool.

   NOTE: This same batter and procedure makes great muffins. For muffins just bake 15-20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean.

May 2021 - Spanakopita

SPANAKOPITA

Greek Mixed Greens Pie

About the Recipe

If, like me, your favorite passed hors d'oeuvres has always been those little golden, crispy, crackly Greek spinach and phyllo triangles (mini spanakopitas) you will absolutely adore a whole huge dinner portion of it. This recipe is easy and relatively foolproof. 

Traditionally a spanakopita is all spinach,  I find it infinitely tastier when spinach is just one in a whole plethora of greens. Use several if you can. And be sure to add lots of fresh herbs. You can adjust the proportions as you see fit (I sometimes use fewer greens and extra herbs). Whatever you do will be fabulous. Just be sure to adjust salt and pepper before baking. You don't want to undersalt.

The entire spanakopita can be put together, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours in advance. Do remove it from the refrigerator 2-4 hours before baking. 

I highly suggest you try this recipe. Working with phyllo is way easier than you'd think. Really fun and, once you get the hang of it, there are so many delicious things to make. I always try to keep a package of frozen phyllo in the freezer. Just remember that if the sheets break, it doesn't really matter. Just proceed with the recipe, patching them together as best you can. No one will know. The finished dish will still look fluffy, golden and magical.

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Spanakopita - Greek Mixed Greens Pie

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 3/4 pound very roughly chopped mixed greens and tender stems. Any combination of  spinach, watercress, collard greens, arugula, and/or Swiss chard works well.

• 1/4 pound mixed tender herbs and tender stems, such as parsley, chives, dill and/or chervil

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling

• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

• 1 scant teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1 large pinch red pepper flakes

• 8 sliced scallions, both white and green parts 

• 5 cloves garlic, quartered 

• 2/3 cup couscous (any size) or quinoa 

• 1 large egg, well beaten

• 1/4 pound feta, crumbled

• 7 sheets phyllo dough, thawed according to directions on package

METHOD

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position. Preheat oven to 400°F.  Generously brush a 9 or 10-inch pie plate or gratin dish  generously with olive oil and set on a rimmed baking sheet. You can also use a similarly sized square or rectangular baking dish.

2. For the Filling: In a large bowl, combine chopped greens, chopped herbs, salt,  pepper and red pepper flakes. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Set aside.

3. In a large Dutch oven or casserole set over medium heat, add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, scallions, and garlic and cook until wilted and beginning to brown, about 5-10 minutes. Add mixed greens  to the pan and toss over heat until the vegetables are just wilted. Don't overcook. Add the couscous or quinoa and egg and thoroughly combine. Once everything is well mixed, fold in the crumbled feta. Adjust salt and pepper.

4. To Assemble the Pie: unroll thawed phyllo and keep it covered with a moist kitchen towel while working. Working with 1 sheet at a time, lay phyllo so that it is centered in the pie pan with the excess draping over the rim and brush generously with about 2 teaspoons olive oil. Working quickly, repeat with 4 more sheets of phyllo, each sheet placed perpendicular to the previous one, brushing with olive oil before adding the next. Don't worry if the phyllo breaks a bit. Do the best you can. It won't make any difference in the finished dish.

5. Add greens mixture to phyllo-lined pie. Fold excess phyllo over greens and--loosely and decoratively if possible-- drape remaining 2 sheets of phyllo over the top. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons more olive oil. Slice into portions using a serrated knife. Only slice about a third of the way down. Don't cut through the bottom crust. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Allow to cool at least 15 minutes before serving.  You can also serve it at room temperature. Warm weather is here and a spanakopita makes great picnic food.

April 2021 - Sea Bass en Papillote

SEA BASS EN PAPILLOTE

About the Recipe

I only liked my fish grilled, pan-seared or baked until this recipe instigated an about face. En papillote is now my current go-to fish preparation and this sea bass is top of the list. In French En papilotte means "in paper" and in culinary speak it means steaming food in a paper wrapper--in general along with veggies and flavorful aromatics. Kitchen parchment is usually used but aluminum foil also works.

This particular recipe pairs well with brown jasmine rice which brilliantly sops up the fragrant juices that issue forth when the packet is unwrapped.

Feel free to experiment. You can add garlic, soy, a few drops of dark sesame oil, lemongrass, chili paste and/or whatever strikes your fancy.

I've also included an Italianesque variation just to show you how the recipe can be modified to suit your taste and what you happen to have in the fridge. It is delicious too.

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Sea Bass en Papillote

Serves 4 (though recipe can be scaled up or down)

Ingredients

MIX TOGETHER:

• 1/2 cup mild olive oil

• juice and finely grated zest from 1 organic lemon or lime

• 1/4 cup dry white wine

• large pinch red pepper flakes

• grated ginger micro plane--1 tablespoon grated fresn ginger--or more to taste

• salt and pepper as needed

• 4 medium carrots peeled and shaved (use a vegetable peeler for the shaving)

• 1 large leek--white part only--well washed and cut crosswise as thinly as possible (6 thinly sliced scallions can be substituted)

• 1 small fennel, sliced as thinly as possible 

• 4 sea bass filets with skin---7 or 8 ounces each, well seasoned with salt and pepper 

METHOD

- Use parchment or foil sheets approximately 12"x16"

1. Preheat oven to 375F.  Fold parchment sheets or foil pieces in half, place 1/4 of the veggie mix on one side of the fold. Place a filet on top. Double fold the edges. Seal with paper clips or staples (not necessary if using foil). Place on a baking sheet.

2. Bake for 18 minutes (if in doubt an instant read thermometer should read 135F-140F

3. BE SURE TO REMOVE STAPLES OR PAPERCLIPS  BEFORE SERVING. Place one package on each of 4 plates and serve right away. Packages are opened at table by each diner.

   NOTE: The packages can be made earlier in the day and refrigerated until ready to bake.

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Italian Variation

Serves 4

Ingredients

MIX TOGETHER:

• 1/4 cup sliced sundried tomatoes 

• 2 tablespoons oil from the tomatoes

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• Zest of 1 lemon plus juice of half the lemon

• 1 small fennel, thinly sliced

• 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1 large shallot, thinly sliced

• Large pinches of hot pepper flakes, dried thyme, rosemary, celery seed

• Salt and pepper as needed

• 4 sea bass filets with skin---7 or 8 ounces each, well seasoned with salt and pepper

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 375F.  Fold parchment sheets or foil pieces in half, place 1/4 of the veggie mix on one side of the fold. Place a filet on top. Double fold the edges. Seal with paper clips or staples (not necessary if using foil). Place on a baking sheet.

2. Bake for 18 minutes (if in doubt an instant read thermometer should read 135F-140F

3. BE SURE TO REMOVE STAPLES OR PAPERCLIPS  BEFORE SERVING. Place one package on each of 4 plates and serve right away. Packages are opened at table by each diner.

   NOTE: The packages can be made earlier in the day and refrigerated until ready to bake.

March 2021 - Homemade Potato Gnocchi

HOMEMADE POTATO GNOCCHI

with Brown Butter and Sage

About the Recipe

I’ve always adored gnocchi but have never made them successfully until now. I’ve adapted a Thomas Keller recipe and am jubilant. The proportions are his, more or less, but making them in an electric mixer—my idea-- makes the whole process infinitely easier, more do-able. 

The only hitch is you CANNOT OVER MIX or the gnocchi will become gummy. A few seconds, then scraping down and then a few seconds more does it nicely. An added bonus: once boiled and cooled, gnocchi freeze perfectly. I enjoy the security blanket factor of having a double or triple batch on hand in the freezer. Just be sure to defrost before using in a recipe. 

Once you have the gnocchi, the brown butter-sage sauce comes together in just a few minutes. This sauce and gnocchi marry perfectly, but the little dumplings are wildly versatile and pair brilliantly with all sorts of sauces. Use your favorite tomato sauce, creamy mushroom sauce, pesto or gorgonzola sauce or just a simple mix of olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, crushed black pepper, and Parmesan.  

If you want super caramelized gnocchi, try tossing with olive oil and melted butter and baking on a sheet pan about 25 minutes in a 425F oven. At that point, toss with a sauce or with roasted veggies of choice.  I like a NY Times recipe that includes roasted asparagus, leeks, sliced shallots and sliced whole lemon. Toss the roasted veggies with the caramelized gnocchi , thawed frozen peas and garnish with fresh chives and Parmesan.  Roasted cabbage or broccoli florets, butternut squash, whole garlic, and shallot or red onion is another great combo. Again, enhance with fresh herbs and Parmesan. 

In any case, these gnocchi are a winner and super easy once you get the hang of them. Let me know if you have questions.

Vis a vis gnocchi boards. They are useful but not necessary. If you don’t have one and don’t want to buy one (you can find them online for about $10), just shape the gnocchi with your hands and use a fork to make some ridges. The ridges help hold the sauce but are not necessary.

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Homemade Potato Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage

Serves 4 -6 as a first course

Ingredients

FOR THE BASIC GNOCCHI:

• 3 medium Russet potatoes, approximately 11 ounces each

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 3/4 to 1 generous cup all-purpose flour plus more for sprinkling while rolling if needed

• 3 egg yolks from extra-large or jumbo eggs

METHOD

1.  Preheat oven to 400F. Prick each potato in several places with a fork and place on a baking sheet. Bake until tender when stuck with a knife or pressed with your finger. Do not underbake.

2. Cut hot potatoes in half.

3. Scoop the potato flesh out of its skin while still hot and push through a potato ricer into the bowl of an electric mixer. Make a well in the potatoes and sprinkle with 6 tablespoons flour. Top with the yolks, and the salt, and sprinkle with a second 6 tablespoons flour.  Mix on low speed for 5 seconds. Scrape down the bowl and mix for 5-10 seconds more, adding up to 6 tablespoons of flour if the dough is too wet. The finished ball of dough should be soft to the touch and hold the imprint of your finger. Don't overmix or the gnocchi will be gummy. Divide the dough into 4 pieces.

4. Gently roll and stretch each piece of dough into a rope 1/2 to 5/8 inch in diameter. Sprinkle lightly with flour if too sticky.  Cut each rope into 1-inch lengths and then roll each piece into a ball. Gently roll each ball onto a gnocchi paddle to form oval gnocchi with ridges, letting each piece fall from the paddle onto a plate or sheet pan. 

5. Meanwhile, prepare and ice bath and set aside.

6. Bring a very large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add half the gnocchi all at once. Give a good stir so that the gnocchi don't clump, lower the heat to medium and cook.

7. As with all dumplings, gnocchi will float to the top when done. When all the gnocchi have risen to the surface, cook for 30 seconds more and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the  finished gnocchi to the ice bath then drain on a paper towel–lined sheet pan.

8. Repeat with remaining gnocchi. 

9. Cooked gnocchi can be used right away or cooled and frozen.

   NOTE: If not using right away--in the sage and brown butter recipe or in a recipe of your choice: transfer gnocchi to a parchment-lined sheet pan. You can serve them right away, refrigerate and use within two days, or freeze and store in an airtight freezer bag for future use. If frozen or refrigerated, bring to room temperature before using.

FOR THE FINISHED SAGE & BROWN BUTTER DISH:

• 1 recipe cooked potato gnocchi at room temperature 

• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or more to taste

• 18 large fresh sage leaves

• 1/2 -1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest finely grated lemon zest 

• 1/2 cup shaved and/or coarsely grated parmesan cheese

METHOD

1.  Melt the butter in a large skillet over high heat. Cook, stirring, until the butter develops brown flecks and smells nutty. Watch it closely to keep the butter solids from burning. 

2. Add the gnocchi, pepper flakes, sage leaves, 1-3 tablespoons of water as needed and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon zest. Toss until some of the brown-butter flecks stick to the gnocchi, a minute or so.

3. Remove from heat and toss in half the cheese. Taste for salt and pepper.

4. Divide into bowls and top with remaining cheese. Serve right away.

February 2021 - Pear Fondant Cake

PEAR FONDANT CAKE

About the Recipe

I'm a huge fan of everything pear. Savory pear preparations can be exceptional. They are great in salads and cooked alongside duck and pork. But I particularly love the dessert options. In the cooler months, I make poached pears, caramelized pears, pear crumbles, pear galettes, pear and ginger crostatas, and pear tarts. And a perfectly ripe pear all by itself is nothing to sneeze at. 

However, possibly my favorite pear dessert of all--and one of the easiest--is a classic Pear Fondant Cake. It's somewhat of a cross between a cake and a custard--but with a crispy, crackly sugar topping-- and luscious. I've been known to eat an entire cake, one tiny sliver after another. For me, it's the most addictive dessert ever. And somehow quite a treat for breakfast as well. Maybe because of the fruit? Or more likely, the fruit is the excuse.

In any case, I've made this recipe for years...for so many years that I have no idea where I found the original recipe. It is common comfort food, cuisine de grandmere, in France, but not so well known here. It is EASY, EASY, EASY. And now, when pears are still at their best, I HIGHLY suggest giving it a try.

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Pear Fondant Cake

Serves 8

Ingredients

FOR THE BOTTOM LAYER:

• 3 large ripe pears (peeled or not. I don’t peel them)  quartered vertically and then each quarter cut into 4 vertical slices

• 3 large eggs at room temperature

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 6 tablespoons unflavored vegetable oil such as safflower, canola, or peanut

• 1 tablespoon dark rum

• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 6 tablespoons flour

• pinch of salt

FOR THE TOP LAYER:

• 2 large eggs, room temperature

• 3/4 cup sugar 

• Pinch of salt

• 5 tablespoons (2 1/2 ounces) softened unsalted butter

• confectioners sugar to garnish

METHOD

1.  Preheat the oven to 425 and heavily butter and sugar a 9- inch springform pan

2. Prepare the first batter: Whisk together 3 eggs, ½ cup sugar, a pinch of salt, the oil, the rum, and the vanilla. Beat well  until a quite fluffy. I prefer to do this in an electric mixer.

3. Add the flour. Mix on low speed until just combined and set aside to rest.

4. Lay the pear slices in the prepared pan in circles starting at the outside and working toward the center. Be sure to cover the entire bottom of the pan even if you have to cut some of the pieces smaller

5. Pour the first batter over the pears and spread evenly. Bake in the center of the preheated oven until the batter is just set and beginning to bubble, about 20 minutes

6. While the  cake is  in the oven, prepare the second batter: In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the softened butter with the 3/4 cups sugar and pinch of salt until well blended.Add the 2 remaining eggs, one at a time, and beat until the batter is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes.

7. Reduce the oven temperature to 350.  Remove the pan from the oven and pour the second batter over the first. Bake another 30-40 minutes until the cake is firm and the top is golden. Don’t underbake.

8. Cool on a rack. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.  Dust with powdered sugar before serving if desired.

January 2021 - Shanghai Beef Short Ribs

SHANGHAI BEEF SHORT RIBS

with Chilies & Soy

About the Recipe

Old is once again new and scrumptious, falling-off-the-bone beef short ribs are experiencing a well-deserved revival.  Call me old-fashioned, but I adore this hearty, stick-to-your-ribs dish, especially in cooler weather. This particular recipe--exotically redolent of ginger, lemongrass, and soy-- provides a titillating, comfort food pick-me-up to combat January doldrums.

Beef short ribs are characterized by drop-dead scrumptiousness and an irresistibly easy "brown, braise, defat"  preparation. Long, slow cooking tenderizes the sinewy meat while fat melts away like magic.   Ask your butcher for his largest, leanest, and meatiest ribs.  Best of all, only the initial browning requires serious attention.  The ribs then cook themselves. While simmering gently stovetop or in the oven, both the beef and its sauce-to-be absorb the essential spices and aromatics from the braising liquid which in turn is infused with the flavor released by the bones. These simultaneous processes produce a distinctly beefy richness resonating with complex layers of added flavor.

Once a defining cut-with-a-spoon doneness is achieved, defatting is child’s play. After cooling, refrigerate the ribs and their liquid for a few hours or better still, overnight or for up to a week. The fat will rise and congeal on top and can easily be removed with a spatula, an easier and more thorough method than labor-intensive simmering-and-skimming.  As flavors mellow and coalesce over time, cooking these recipes in advance provides extra deliciousness and less grease. To serve, bring to room temperature and reheat (covered) in a 350-degree oven for about 25 minutes. The prepare-ahead nature of this winter crowd pleaser is a host’s dream-come-true. 

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Shanghai Beef Short Ribs with Chilies and Soy

Ingredients

Serves 10-12

RIBS:

• 5 tablespoons safflower oil

• 10 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for center- cut), trimmed of excess fat and cut in half (by the butcher) crosswise.

• 10 ounces fresh ginger (about 5 inches), thinly sliced

• 6 garlic cloves, sliced

• 1/2 cup finely chopped lemongrass

• 2 dried Thai chilies

• 1 1/3 cups soy sauce

• 10 cups water

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

GLAZE:

• 1 cup hoisin sauce

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• 1/2 cup soy sauce

• 1/2 cup honey

• 1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder

• 2 dried Thai chilies

• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

• 4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

• 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, Thai basil and/or chives for garnish

• Cucumber-Radish Remoulade (optional)

CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)

• 1/4 cup mayonnaise

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

• 4 teaspoons wasabi paste

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 pounds cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into 1 1/2 x 1/4-inch sticks

• 1 pound red radishes, trimmed and very thinly sliced

• 1/2 cup finely minced chives

METHOD

RIBS:

1.  Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

2. Add ribs, working in batches if necessary, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

3. Transfer ribs to a plate, leaving drippings in pot.

4. Reduce heat to medium, and add ginger, garlic, lemongrass, and chili. Cook until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add soy sauce, water, sugar, salt, and ribs. Cover, and gently simmer until ribs are tender, about 1 hour.

GLAZE:

1. Combine hoisin, garlic, tamari or soy sauce, honey, five-spice powder, chili, orange zest, and vinegar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Preheat broiler. Remove ribs from liquid, and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet.

3. Brush glaze all over ribs, and broil until glaze starts to bubble, about 3 minutes per side.

4. Transfer to a serving platter, and brush with more glaze before serving. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired.

Pass the Remoulade separately if using. Another great accompaniment is homemade mayonnaise flavored with garlic and lots of wasabi paste.

CUCUMBER-RADISH REMOULADE (optional addition)

1. Combine the mayonnaise, mustard, wasabi paste and salt and pepper to taste in a large mixing bowl.

2. Fold in the cucumbers, radishes and half the chives. Adjust seasonings and strew the remaining chives over the top. Serve right away.

December 2020 - Potatoes Anna

POTATOES ANNA

About the Recipe

Potatoes Anna is unique and spectacularly scrumptious, a sublime potato cake--its golden, potato-chip-like exterior encasing a meltingly tender, supremely buttery interior. Dating back to Napoleon III's Second Empire Paris, it was created by famed chef Adolphe Dugléré at Cafe Anglaise to honor a favorite customer, Anna Deslions, a 19thcentury beauty--arguably Zola’s model for Nana--  said to have serviced 3 kings, l2 emperors, l8 princes, 34 dukes, 2 princesses and several actresses in the Café’s infamous upstairs private dining room. 

My personal--and less exotic-- fascination with pommes Anna also began in Paris, at Brasserie Bofinger when I was 19. Having trouble believing the waiter's explanation that the miraculous galette was nothing but thinly sliced potatoes, butter, salt and pepper cooked briefly on the stove top and finished off in a hot oven, I suspected the magic must rest in a secret French trick, ingredient or impossible-to-manage-at-home technique. 

I was wrong. Though this elegant showstopper holds its own on even the most lavish occasion, it’s quick and easy. Use a heavy skillet and the best butter you can find, and the heavenly concoction is hard to mess up. But don’t undercook; without its characteristic golden shell, the dish remains humble spuds rather than food for the gods.  

And no matter what anyone tells you, don’t rinse the raw potato slices. Their starch provides the necessary glue that prevents the cake from falling apart when unmolded. In a pinch, Potatoes Anna can be completed up to 6 hours in advance, cooled completely, covered loosely with foil, and reheated for 15-20 minutes in a 350-degree oven when ready to serve.

The adventurous can sprinkle chives, grated cheese, sautéed onions, or even chopped black truffles between the layers before baking. Hard to go wrong.

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Potatoes Anna

Ingredients

Makes one 9-10-inch potato cake to serve 6 as a side dish

• 2 pounds Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes, washed but not peeled (you can peel if you feel you must but it’s extra work and unnecessary)

• 1 tablespoons olive oil 

• 7 tablespoons unsalted butter (the best and freshest you can get your hands on)

• Fine sea salt 

• Freshly ground black pepper 

• 2 tablespoons chopped chives or parsley (optional)

METHOD

1.  Slice potatoes approximately 1/16-inch thick.

2. Preheat oven to 425 with rack in the lowest position. Over medium-low heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter plus the olive oil in a 9-10 inch well-seasoned cast iron skillet, heavy nonstick skillet or omelette pan with an ovenproof handle. When butter is melted and beginning to foam, remove from heat and swirl to coat sides of pan

3. Place pan back over low heat. In the middle of the skillet, set one potato slice. Using the best-looking potato slices, overlap them in a circle around the center (this will be the top layer). Continue with overlapping layers of potatoes--seasoning with salt and pepper and pushing down to compact the potatoes as you go -- until potatoes are used up. Fit any extra potato slices or pieces into any holes that are left between slices. Remember that only the bottom layer and sides of the potato cake will show once inverted.

4. Dot potatoes with remaining butter and cover with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Use your hands to press down hard on the potatoes to compact them as much as possible. 

5. Place a lid over the parchment paper, put pan on a baking sheet, and place on the lowest rack of the oven. Bake covered for 20 minutes. 

6. After 25 minutes, remove lid and press down, with a small plate or large spatula, to compact the potatoes as much as possible.

7. Bake 30 minutes more and then check for doneness. Bake 10-15 minutes more if necessary. When done, potatoes will be very tender when cut into with a small knife and will be golden brown and crispy underneath and around the edges. If the potatoes need a bit of extra browning, place the pan on the oven floor or back on the burner for the last 5 minutes of cooking, but be careful they don’t burn.

8. When done, remove from oven or heat and let stand undisturbed for 10 minutes. Run a small knife around the inside of the pan. Press a plate against the potatoes and tilt the pan over a bowl to get rid of excess butter. Place an inverted platter over the skillet, invert the skillet and platter together, and lift off the skillet. If some of the potatoes have stuck, use a spatula to lift them out and push them back into place. Cut into 6 wedges. Serve immediately.  Sprinkle with fresh parsley or chives if desired.

November 2020 - Gravlax

GRAVLAX

About the Recipe

My love of all things salmon began in early childhood. In Beverly Hills where I grew up, Sunday mornings meant trekking off to Nate ‘n Al’s and stuffing myself with enough lox, bagels, and cream cheese to last until dinner and beyond. 

The deli’s lox —  salted, lightly cold-smoked Nova Scotia salmon---was scrumptious. As time passed, however, I encountered the usually-less-salty Scottish, Irish, and Norwegian smoked salmons and liked them even better; but their cost relegated them to the “special occasion food” category.

And then, voila---at a Stockholm restaurant in the early ‘nineties--gravlax, a palate-pleasing revelation. I never looked back. The thinly sliced, rosily orange fish looked like smoked salmon, but its meltingly tender texture and cleaner taste were new.  I learned that preparing this delicacy was smoke-free child’s play: refrigerating  very fresh salmon fillet for a couple of days after smothering it in salt, sugar and abundant fresh dill, something even a kitchen novice can manage at home in ten minutes or less and inexpensively to boot. 

My guests marvel nonstop and devour it enthusiastically whether it’s served as an hors d'oeuvre, elegant starter, sandwich filling, brunch fare, or light main course. Toasts and a sweet mustard-dill sauce are the traditional accompaniments. Though I sometimes present the exquisite filet as a one-man show, offering it with nothing but cracked pepper, chopped dill and a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice or champagne vinegar.

Its versatility makes gravlax ideal for the upcoming holiday season. One recipe will provide a cocktail accompaniment for a huge crowd or a first course for several dinner parties. You may even have extra left for Sunday brunch. Whether serving gravlax naked or sauced, use only the very freshest fish to make it. Brining extends the shelf life of the salmon, but only for a few extra days, the exact length of time depending on the fish’s freshness, handling and storage. Well-wrapped and refrigerated, gravlax will last at least a week—not including the curing time. But if you smell any off odors sooner, discard it.

Gorgeous gravlax is a you-can’t-go-wrong-no-brainer. It’s perfection, unusual and the least expensive luxury food on the planet.

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Gravlax

Ingredients

Serves about 20 as an hors d’oeuvres, or 12-16 as an appetizer

GRAVLAX:

• Approximately 3 pounds fresh salmon filet, two 1/2 pound center cut pieces, skin on

• 1 large bunch of dill, washed and shaken dry

• 1/2 cup kosher salt

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2 tablespoons white peppercorns, crushed (black peppercorns can be substituted if you prefer)

• 2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds toasted and cooled (optional) 

• 2 tablespoons crushed coriander seeds toasted and cooled (optional)

  To Serve:

  Small pumpernickel, whole wheat, rye or brioche toasts

  Dill sprigs to garnish

  Mustard Sauce, recipe follows

MUSTARD SAUCE

• 6 tablespoons honey mustard

• 3-4 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1/2  cup tablespoons chopped fresh dill

• 1/2  teaspoon salt or more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

METHOD

GRAVLAX:

1.  Cut the salmon in half crosswise and place half the fish skin side down in a deep dish. 

2. Place the dill on the fish. 

3. Combine the salt, sugar, toasted seeds and crushed peppercorns in a small bowl and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the layer of dill. 

4. Place the second half of salmon on top, skin side up. 

5. Cover the dish with a lid if available--otherwise with aluminum foil. 

6. Refrigerate the salmon for 48-72 hours, turning it a few times and basting it with the liquid that collects in the pan.

7. After 48 hours, slice off a piece of salmon, rinse and taste to see if it's cured to your liking. If not, wait 12 more hours and keep checking till ready. I tend to like it after 48 hours. When salmon is cured, discard the bunch of dill, and quickly rinse the marinade spices off the fish in cool water. Dry well with paper towels.  

8. Lay the 2 pieces of salmon on a cutting board or platter and sprinkle with chopped dill. Slice the salmon in long thin slices as you would for smoked salmon. Serve with toasts and mustard sauce.

Extra salmon will keep for at least 1 week refrigerated.

MUSTARD SAUCE

1. Whisk mustard and vinegar in small bowl to blend.

2. Gradually whisk in oil. Stir in chopped dill and salt.

3. Season with ground black pepper.

Sauce can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill.

Alternatively, process everything but the fresh dill in a food processor or blender. When smooth, pulse in the dill. Leave the dill chopped but still visible.

October 2020 - Lobster AND/OR Shrimp Risotto

LOBSTER AND/OR SHRIMP RISOTTO

with Green Peas & Tomatoes

About the Recipe

Years ago, a Milanese friend watching me prepare a seafood risotto was appalled at the abundance of shrimp, clams and calamari I enthusiastically included. She insisted that when made correctly, her country’s rice and pasta dishes were all about the starch; other ingredients were merely to provide variety and nomenclature. Duly shamed, I followed her directive for years, especially as that was back in the 1990s when carbs were kings, and medical professionals proclaimed that limitless carbohydrates (even the white ones) were the key to good health. 

Time has passed and views have about-faced. Whether to remain au courant or simply because I’ve always preferred a bit less starch, I’ve been flipping the ratio recently and loving the results.  

Whether for a crunch-forward, summer-light salad or a hearty winter risotto or something in between, I use way less pasta than previously while going super heavy on vegetables and proteins. I’ve always seen pastas and risottos as ideal repositories for extraneous bits and pieces from the fridge. With minimal imagination, you can combine leftover meat, poultry, fish, seafood, sausage, legumes and/or vegetables with small amounts of rice or noodles and acheive winning, tasty and healthy (!!) results.

Try the recipe below. Whether you serve it as main course or a luxurious starter, you will be met with rave reviews.

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Lobster and/or Shrimp Risotto with Green Peas and Tomatoes

Ingredients

Serves 6 as a main course or generously as a starter

• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided into three equal portions of 2 tablespoons each

• 3 large shallots or 1 large red onion, peeled and chopped

• 4 large cloves of garlic, peeled and minced

• 4 medium tomatoes, and cut into medium dice

• 2 pounds cooked fresh lobster meat (from 4 1 1/2 pound lobsters) or frozen defrosted lobster meat, cut into bite-size pieces OR use 2 pounds of shelled cooked shrimp. Or combine shrimp and lobster

• 2 1/2 cups frozen green peas, thawed

• 4 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

• approximately 8 cups of fish or lobster stock, homemade or frozen store-bought 

• 1 teaspoon Madras curry powder

• large pinch saffron threads (optional but delicious)

• l large piece orange zest

• 1 ½ tablespoons tasteless vegetable oil

• ½ cup finely chopped onion

• ½ cup finely chopped celery

• ½ cup finely chopped fresh fennel

• ½ cup peeled and chopped minced carrot

• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced

• 2 1/4 cups arborio rice

• 3/4 cup dry white wine

• salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce to taste

METHOD

1.  In a medium skillet or sauté pan set over moderate heat, melt the first 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the lobster meat and the peas. Cook and stir frequently until the lobster is heated through, about 5 minutes more. Add salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce to taste. Off the stove, spoon the second 2 tablespoons of butter and the parsley on top of the lobster and set the mixture aside. *To prepare ahead, cool this mixture and then cover and refrigerate several hours or overnight. .

2. In a large saucepan, bring the stock to a very low simmer with the curry powder, saffron (if using) and orange zest. Leave it simmering during the entire preparation of the risotto.

3. Meanwhile place a 6-quart casserole or sauté pan over moderate heat. Add the last of the butter and the oil, onion, celery, fennel, carrot, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft but not colored, about 5 minutes. 

4. Add the rice to the pan and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.

5. Add the wine and stir until it is completely absorbed.

6. Add the simmering stock, 1 cup at a time, andstir often. Wait until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. Reserve 1/4 cup of the stock to add at the end. If you run out of stock, add simmering water.

7. When the rice is tender but still firm, after about 20 to 30 minutes of cooking, add the lobster mixture along with the reserved broth. Stir well, adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

September 2020 - Oyster and Bacon Succotash

OYSTER AND BACON SUCCOTASH

About the Recipe

Succotash is a Narragansett-derived word for a veggie staple adopted by early English settlers soon after their Plymouth Rock arrival. Though subjected to centuries of interpretation, the dish remains defined by the late-summer windfall of corn and beans (of any sort though most characteristically green and lima). Butter and bacon grease long ago replaced the original bear fat, but the historical inclusion of onions and squash remains popular to this day.  Garlic, zucchini, tomatoes and bell peppers are now frequent additions as well.

Always a versatile side dish,  more elaborate succotashes--such as the no-brainer surf-and-turf oyster and bacon version below--provide excellent starters as well.  I love oysters, but this little stew is extraordinary even without creamy mollusks so delete them if you must. Alternatively, include clams, mussels, shrimp, lobster or crabmeat instead.

 
Researching for an article, I unearthed recipes quicker and more basic than my old standby--- equally good, just different. One-- from Chez Panisse Vegetables--- is so simple in fact that Alice Waters just calls it “Corn and Green Beans.” Feeling it unnecessary to give proportions, she tells us to combine boiled and drained green beans and corn kernels with butter, salt, pepper and fresh herbs. Voila. I sometimes add garlic, onions and a bit of cream, but that’s just to show off. 

Succotash can be tasty using leftover or frozen vegetables too, and some swear by it at Thanksgiving.  For me, however, the dish is best in September when fresh, peak-of-the-season vegetables abound. This recipe is paradise on a plate as written but succotash is about handfuls rather than exact measurements. In some parts of the country, any mixed vegetable butter sauté is considered a succotash so don’t be afraid to improvise with garden surplus or green market specials. 

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Oyster and Bacon Succotash

Ingredients

Serves 4 as a starter, 6-8 as a side dish

• 3/4 pound double smoked bacon, thick-sliced and cut crosswise into 1/2 inch pieces

• 10 ears fresh corn, kernels cut off the cob

• 1 1/2 pounds fresh lima beans or 2 10-ounce boxes frozen lima beans. This is a case where fresh will not taste much different than frozen and is much easier

• 2 cups haricots verts or green beans, trimmed cut into 2-inch lengths

• 1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter, if needed

• 8 scallions including tops, trimmed and cut into 1/2 inch lengths

• 3 tablespoons heavy cream or more if needed

• 24 oysters with their liquid

• salt, freshly ground black pepper, and Tabasco sauce to taste

• 1/2 cup minced fresh Italian parsley, basil, and/or chives for garnish

• 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on size

METHOD

1.  In a large sauté pan or skillet, cook the bacon over medium-low heat to render the fat.  Remove the bacon pieces with a slotted spoon, blot on paper towels and reserve. The fat in the pan should measure 1/4 cup. If it doesn’t, add enough butter to make up the difference.

2. Meanwhile, blanch the lima beans—fresh or frozen--in boiling salted water till al dente, about 10 minutes for the fresh, about 2 or 3 minutes for the thawed. Remove with a slotted spoon, refresh in cold water. Pop off the skins if using fresh and set aside. Repeat in the same water with the haricots verts adding a little baking soda if desired to keep them green.

3. Sauté the corn in the bacon grease over medium heat, until just tender, 2-3 minutes. Add the lima beans and cook 3 minutes more, stirring occasionally. 

4. Add the scallions and the cream and simmer 5 minutes more. Add the haricots verts and and cook for 1 minute.

5. Add reserved lardons and the oysters with their liquor. If too dry, add a tablespoon or two more cream. Cook to warm the oysters through, 1-2 minutes.  Off heat stir in the fresh herbs and tomatoes. Season to taste and serve.

August 2020 - The Best Oreo Make-Ahead Ice Cream Tart

THE BEST MAKE-AHEAD OREO ICE CREAM TART

About the Recipe

My mother made a wide variety of ice cream pies when I was little. I often even requested one on my birthday instead of a cake-cake. I've recreated a favorite from memory, but pick favorite flavors and let your imagination run wild. HUGE BONUS: crust and ice cream can put together and frozen for up to six months (or more) in advance. When time for dessert, just whip the cream and top the tart.

Just be sure to wrap WELL (edges folded together so that no air whatsoever gets in) in ALUMINUM foil. Or foil over plastic wrap but NOT plastic wrap only!

Although an old-fashioned throwback, everyone goes wild over this cookie- candy-crust- ice cream-whipped-cream concoction. Below is a basic recipe but PLEASE EXPERIMENT. I have a feeling you'll be making this version and variations way more than once!!

For crust variety, try 'nilla wafers, ginger snaps, chocolate chip cookies, chocolate wafers, vanilla sandwich cookies, graham crackers or something else. Ground nuts can also be added to the crust and/or sprinkled between the layers. In summer I like vanilla ice cream and orange or raspberry or mango sorbet. Or vanilla ice cream and two or more flavors of sorbet. I also like vanilla ice cream with strawberry or raspberry ice cream and then a fresh berry garnish on top of the whipped cream (a single berry or mixed

Salted Caramel Ice Cream is good with a ginger snap crust. As is fresh pear ice cream or pear sorbet and vanilla ice cream. Chopped candied ginger is delicious sprinkled on top and/or between the layers.

I love peppermint stick, vanilla and chocolate ice creams with a mint oreo cookie crust.

Chopped hard candy, peppermint sticks, heath bars or English toffee, After Eights, praline, meringue, coffee crunch, peanut butter cups, butterfingers, etc. - all delicious as garnish depending on ice cream flavors. Chocolate, caramel or berry sauces a great addition.

And consider flavoring the whipped cream with cocoa powder, instant espresso or a liqueur of your choice.

Please let me know what you end up making and how it turns out!!!!

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The Best Make-Ahead Oreo Ice Cream Tart

Ingredients

Serves 12-15

FOR THE CRUST:

• 35 Oreo cookies—3 cups graham cracker crumbs, chocolate or “nilla wafer crumbs may be substituted. You can also experiment with chocolate chip cookie crumbs or ginger snaps. Let your imagination go wild. Just remember to pair the ice cream flavors with whatever crust you choose. 

• 5 1/2 tablespoons  unsalted butter,  melted

• 3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

FOR THE FILLING:

• 3-4 pints best quality ice cream - 1 flavor or mixed. I like using coffee or coffee and chocolate. Or chocolate and mint chocolate chip. Whatever….

• Optional melted chocolate sauce or milted semisweet chocolate to drizzle between ice cream layers. Optionally also on crust. OR substitute caramel sauce. OR raspberry sauce if you are using sorbets, vanilla ice cream and strawberry or raspberry ice cream Options are endless.

FOR THE TOPPING:

• 1 cup heavy cream, very cold

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract heavy cream

• 1 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

• Crushed Oreos, crushed Heath Bars, or crushed candy canes for garnish (optional) or toasted nuts or something else of your choice. Depends on the ice cream flavors. After Eights are also good.

Method

1. Make the crust: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Add Oreos to the bowl of a food processor and process until fine crumbs form. Add melted butter and salt, and process until crumbs are evenly moistened. Tip mixture out into a 10-inch springform pan, and press crumbs evenly into bottom and sides of pan. Bake until crust is fragrant and set, about 12 minutes.

2. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

3. Be sure crust is cool. You can even freeze or refrigerate it first.Soften ice cream a bit and spread it (layered if different flavors). Sprinkle some of the topping between the layers if desired. With or without caramel or chocolate sauce. Freeze, well-wrapped in foil for up to two months. 

4. When ready to serve, remove tart from freezer and place on a platter.

5. Place the cream, vanilla and sugar in a cold bowl of an electric mixer and mix till light and fluffy. Don’t overmix.

6. Spread whipped cream on top of the tart and sprinkle with toppings of your choice if desired. 

July 2020 - Uncooked Summer Sauces

UNCOOKED SUMMER SAUCES

About the Recipe

For many of us, nothing tastes better or defines summer more acutely than a chunk of meat, chicken, fish, seafood, or even a passel of veggies grilled en plein air over an open fire. Perhaps it’s our caveman ancestry, but whatever the reason, a meal produced over flames excites our spirits and imaginations at well as our taste buds.

Nonetheless, mid summer arrives and the novelty of the grill wanes. I crave something extra to enhance those basics grillades. But my summer-hot kitchen is hardly inviting. Enter a parade of quick, highly flavorful, no-cook sauces. Tasty vinaigrettes, salsas and creamy dressings dramatically enliven any grilled offering and often brilliantly alter the entire tenor of a meal.

Below are six of my favorites from around the globe, each versatile, bursting with flavor, and easy—four of them made in the food processor and--conveniently--improved if prepared several days in advance. Only the Mango-Mint Chutney and the Cucumber-Dill sauces are made by hand.

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Fresh Mango-Mint Chutney

Makes 7-8 cups

Ingredients

• 2 large or 4 small mangoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

• 1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro or more to taste

• 3/4 cup fresh mint leaves, finely julienned

• 1/2 cup finely minced red onion or more to taste

• 1/2 jalapeno pepper, ribs removed, seeded and finely minced or more to taste

• Juice and zest of 2 limes

• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

METHOD

1.  Mix all the ingredients together and set aside for at least an hour at room temperature to allow the flavors to marry.

2. Adjust seasoning and serve.

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Muhamarra

Makes approximately 3 cups

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 pounds roasted sweet red bell peppers

• 1 1/2 cups walnuts

• 1/2 cup wheat crackers or zweibach

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, or more to taste

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, more for garnish

• Salt to taste

• 1/2 teaspoon sugar

• Approximately1 tablespoon Turkish red pepper paste or to taste

• 2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, more for garnish

METHOD

1.  In a food processor, grind the walnuts and crackers with the lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, cumin, salt, and sugar until smooth. Add the roasted peppers and process until puréed and creamy.

2. With the machine on, add the olive oil in a thin stream. Add the red pepper paste to taste. If the paste is too thick, thin with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water. Refrigerate overnight.

3. To serve, let the dip come to room temperature, sprinkle with cumin, and drizzle with olive oil.
   
   NOTE: If you want to roast the peppers yourself: Roast the peppers and chili over a gas burner or under a broiler, turning frequently until blackened and blistered all over, about 12 minutes. Place in a covered bowl to steam for 10 minutes. Rub off the skins, slit peppers open, and remove stems, membranes and seeds. Spread the peppers, smooth side up, on a paper towel and let drain for 10 minutes.

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Cucumber-Dill Sauce

Makes approximately 4 cups

Ingredients

• 2 cups sour cream, crème fraiche or Greek yogurt

• 1 medium red onion, peeled and finely minced

• 1/4 cup minced chives

• 1/2 cup finely minced fresh dill

• 4 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar or more to taste

• Few drops of Tabasco or other hot chili sauce

• Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

• 1 medium cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

METHOD

1.  In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients except the cucumber. Refrigerate for at least an hour to allow the flavors to combine. 

2. When ready to serve, stir in the cucumber and adjust salt and pepper

   NOTE: If you want to add the cucumber earlier, toss it with 2 teaspoons of salt and let it sit for 20 minutes. Than drain off the excess water and squeeze dry in a kitchen towel. Add to the sauce. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Old-Fashioned Thousand Island Dressing

Makes approximately 2 cups

Ingredients

• 1 cup best-quality purchased or homemade mayonnaise

• 1/4 cup bottled chili sauce (such as Heinz)

• 1/4 cup tomato catsup

• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced pitted black olives

• 2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley

• 2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish

• 2 teaspoons sweet relish

• 1 large shallot, peeled and finely minced

• 2 tablespoons finely minced green bell pepper

• 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh dill

• 1-2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon sea salt or more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Several drops of Tabasco sauce or a pinch of cayenne pepper

  Optional additions: minced pitted green olives, minced dill pickle, minced hard boiled egg

METHOD

1.  Whisk or stir all ingredients together in a small bowl.

2. Set aside for at least 30 minutes (and up to 2 days if refrigerated) to allow the flavors to marry.

3. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve.

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Green Goddess Dressing

Makes approximately 2 1/2 cups

Ingredients

• 2 large ripe Haas avocados, peeled and quartered. Save the seeds.

• Juice and finely grated zest of 2 lemons

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 4 teaspoons white wine vinegar

• 2 large garlic cloves, peeled

• 8 oil-packed anchovy fillets

• Salt, pepper, Tabasco sauce to taste

METHOD

1.  Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor and process till smooth.

2. Transfer to a bowl and bury the avocado seeds in the dressing.

3. Cover with plastic wrap touching the surface of the sauce to prevent oxidation.

4. Refrigerate until ready to use. Best if made no more than three hours before using.

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Raw Peanut Sauce

Makes approximately 2 1/4 cups

Ingredients

• 1 cup creamy peanut butter

• 2-3 cloves garlic, peeled

• 1-2 tablespoons coarsely chopped peeled ginger

• Zest and juice of one large lime

• Large pinch of cayenne pepper or several drops of sriracha

• 2 tablespoons honey

• 3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari

• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar

• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

• 2-4 tablespoons light coconut milk or water, as needed

• 1/3 cup chopped cilantro (optional)

• Salt if necessary to taste

METHOD

1.  Place all of the ingredients except the cilantro in a food processor or blender and process on high speed until smooth.

2. Adjust seasonings to taste and then add the cilantro if using and pulse to combine.

3. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.

June 2020 - Summer Rolls

SUMMER ROLLS

with Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

About the Recipe

Summer rolls-- paper-thin bánh tráng or rice paper sheets wrapped around a refreshingly light salad filling typically consisting of vegetables, herbs, vermicelli and a small amount of shrimp, pork, or chicken---- are uncooked hand-held treats.  Served cold or at room temperature, they are thus easy to distinguish from spring or egg rolls which are deep-fried and served hot. 

Crunchily vegetal summer rolls are ideal to make and eat as temperatures rise. Just soften your banh trang in water, lay them flat, and top with a few spoonfuls of filling. The folding—an exercise in simple origami—is fun and goes quickly. Get the basic recipe down, and then start tweaking. Salted peanuts, Thai or purple basil, and finely diced radish, bell pepper or cucumber are great additions as are avocado and cooked pork belly.

This garden-fresh wrap is traditionally paired with an intensely flavored, Asian-inspired sauce resulting in a mélange of flavors and textures that explode on the palate. I adore the sweet chili dipping sauce below, but peanut, hoisin-based, and nuoc mam cham versions vie for a close second place. 

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Summer Rolls

Makes 16 rolls, serving 8 as an appetizer 

Time: Approximately 30 minutes.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola

• 8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

• 4 ounces Asian vermicelli noodles

• 3/4 pound cooked, shelled and roughly chopped shrimp (roughly chopped cooked chicken or roast pork may be substituted)

• 1/2 head Napa cabbage or 1 whole head soft lettuce such as Boston, finely shredded

• 4 medium carrots, peeled and shredded or coarsely grated

• 1 large bunch cilantro, chopped (save stems for the dipping sauce)

• 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped

• 8 whole scallions, cut in paper thin rounds

• 1 ½ tablespoons ground coriander

• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

• 16 sheets 22 centimeters round or square rice paper (banh tang)

• 1 recipe Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce (below)

Method

1. In a medium skillet, heat the oil and fry the garlic until golden, about 5 minutes. Off heat stir in the shrimp and set aside.

2. Soak the vermicelli in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain noodles and cook in boiling water, stirring frequently to break up the clumps, until al dente, 2-3 minutes.

3. Drain cooked noodles and refresh under cold water. Drain again and set aside.

4. In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage or lettuce, carrots, cilantro, mint, scallions, ground coriander, garlicky shrimp and cooked vermicelli. Add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Immerse one rice paper at a time in a warm-hot water, Watch for it to begin curling, then immediately flip it over and continue flipping until it is just softened, 30-60 seconds. Use both hands to pull it up out of the water, being careful it doesn't collapse on itself or tear, and spread it immediately on a damp kitchen towel. 

6. Place 1/16 of the filling mixture (3-4 tablespoons) near the top of the wet wrapper. Roll the top end tightly over the filling and then fold in the sides. Finish rolling till closed and snug. The final product will look like a small burrito. 

7. Continue this way until all 16 are finished. They can wait covered with a damp towel until ready to serve, up to 3 hours.

8. To serve, cut each in half horizontally and serve 4 halves per person accompanied by Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce. 

Sweet and Spicy Chili Dipping Sauce

Makes approximately 1 ½ cups

Time: Active time: 10 minutes plus cooling time 

 Ingredients

• Cilantro stems reserved from the filling, chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

• 1 tablespoon neutral vegetable oil such as canola

• 1 cup minus 3 tablespoons (13 tablespoons)unseasoned rice wine vinegar (white wine vinegar may be substituted)

• 2 tablespoons fish sauce

• 2 tablespoons Asian Red Pepper Paste or Garlic Chili Paste

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2-3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or more to taste

Method 

1. In a medium saucepan, saute chopped cilantro stems and garlic in the oil until very fragrant and garlic is beginning to color, about 5 minutes. 

2. Add vinegar, fish sauce, paste, and sugar and simmer until the sugar has dissolved, 3-5 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Add lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning—fish sauce, salt and pepper-- before serving.

May 2020 - Cioppino

CIOPPINO

Fisherman's Wharf Stew

About the Recipe

Cioppino originated on the boats off San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, arriving with the Genoese fishermen immigrating to America between the Gold Rush and the 1930's. Traditionally a catch-of-the-day affair-- one in a large family of robust and flavorful seafood stews that flourish in ports around the world--it is now defined by freshness and a diversity of local fish and shellfish combined with garlic, tomatoes and wine.

Granted I'm a seafood lover and thus a bit biased, but this is definitely one of my favorite dishes on the planet. Crab forks and lobster crackers come in handy as do bibs and plenty of napkins. Be sure to make the garlic mayonnaise as it dramatically enhances the stew. And don't forget the toast--sour dough if you can get it--to sop up the juices.

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Cioppino

Ingredients

THE RECIPE CAN BE PREPARED UP TO 48 HOURS AHEAD TO THIS POINT AND REFRIGERATED AFTER COOLING COMPLETELY. ACTUALLY IS EVEN BETTER MADE AHEAD.

For the Cioppino:

Serves 8-10

• 16 large ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/2 inch slices crosswise

• 1/4 cup plus 2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup peeled and finely diced onion

• 3/4 cup thinly sliced celery

• 3/4 cup diced fresh fennel

• 3/4 cup carrots, peeled and cut into small dice

• 4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

• 1/4 cup Pernod or other anise-flavored liqueur

• 8 cups rich fish stock

• Finely grated zest of one orange

• 1 teaspoon saffron threads

• 1 teaspoon sea salt

• 40 cherrystone clams, rinsed

• 40 mussels, debearded and well scrubbed if necessary

• 40 medium shrimp

• 2 pounds monkfish, cut into one-inch squares

• 2 pounds cleaned squid, cut into 1/4 inch rings

• 1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

• 1/4 cup julienned fresh basil

• Fennel leaves if available

• Garlic mayonnaise, recipe below

• Lots of thick-cut crusty sour dough,  peasant or French bread, toasted

For the Garlic Mayonaise:

Makes approximately 1 1/2 cups

• 1 room temperature egg

• 1 large clove peeled garlic or more to taste

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 

• 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

• 1/2 teaspoon salt plus more to taste

• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper plus more to taste

• a few drops of Tabasco sauce or more to taste

• 1/2 cup tasteless vegetable oil

• 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• More salt, pepper, garlic and lemon juice, to taste

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Method

For the Cioppino:

1. Preheat the oven to 425F. Lay the tomato slices on a greased baking sheet and drizzle with the 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until caramelized, 30-40 minutes. Cool and cut into medium dice. Set aside in a small bowl.

2. Over medium heat and in a large casserole or stock pot, heat the 1/4 cup olive oil with the onions, celery, fennel and carrots. Cook, stirring frequently for 10 minutes If the mixture becomes too dry or brown, add a bit of fish stock or water. 

3. Add the garlic and cook until the vegetables are soft and beginning to color, approximately 10 to 15 minutes more.

4. Warm the Pernod in a small saucepan. Turn off both burners and flame the vegetables with the Pernod, stirring until the flames have completely subsided

5. Return the pot to medium heat and add the fish stock, zest, saffron, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper and chopped tomatoes. Bring to a simmer, stir, reduce heat and cook 5 minutes.

6. When ready to serve, heat the broth over medium heat to a simmer, but do not boil.

   Add the mussels and clams and cover. Cook 2 minutes, then add the shrimp and monkfish. Cover and cook 2 more minutes. Add the squid and cook for a minute or so. Do not overcook but make sure the clams and mussels are open and everything else is done.

7. Add parsley, basil, and fennel leaves if using. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce.

8. Serve divided into hot bowls, being sure to give everyone some of everything

9. Pass the Garlic Mayo and lots of toasted crusty French bread or place a piece of toast spread with mayo in the bottom of each bowl.

For the Garlic Mayonaise:

1. Put the first 7 ingredients (ROOM TEMPERATURE) in the bowl of a food processor or blender and process a few seconds to blend

2. Mix the two oils together

3. With the machine running, add the oil mixture, first drop by drop and then in a very slow stream, to the ingredients already in the food processor. 

4. When the mayonnaise is thick and all the oil has been added, taste and adjust seasonings.

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April 2020 - Green Pea Smash

GREEN PEA SMASH

A.K.A. Mushy Peas

About the Recipe

Some may find my preferring frozen peas to fresh heretical. While excitement abounds each spring as farmers’ market diehards welcome a new crop of green peas, the season is short and often not so sweet. Just-harvested peas are sublime, but once picked, sugar soon turns to starch and disappointment sets in. Although anti-intuitive, I’ve found that peas from the supermarket freezer aisle meet my expectations every time while those from the garden fall short unless cooked immediately after picking. I first tasted mushy peas, a British stand-by, many years ago at a pre-theater dinner at London's legendary Sheekey's. Since then I've made them for myself, my family, dinner parties and have taught the recipe often in my classes.

This recipe will delight family and friends alike, and even the most skeptically pea-adverse tend to cry out, “more peas, please.”

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Ingredients

Serves 4-6

•  2 tablespoons olive oil 

• 3/4 cup finely chopped  yellow onion

•  13-16 ounce bag frozen green peas, thawed

•  2-4 tablespoons heavy cream and more if needed for thinning

• 1-2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 3/4 teaspoon sea salt and 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper or more of each to taste

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Method

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat.

2. Add onion and cook till softened and beginning to color, about 5 minutes.

3. Add thawed peas and cream and cook about 5 minutes more or until piping hot.

4. Put the contents of the pan, the mint, the butter and salt and pepper in a food processor or blender and pulse a few times.

If you like your mushy peas a but runny add a bit more heavy cream or a few tablespoons of whole milk. Reheat if necessary. Serve right away.

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March 2020 - Sweet and Spicy Asian Meatballs

SWEET and SPICY ASIAN MEATBALLS

About the Recipe

Asian meatballs are the absolute best!! And these are the best I've ever had, my favorite go-to hors d'oeuvre ever since my close friend and upstairs neighbor, Robert Burke, gave me the recipe last September. You can use with any ground meat or poultry. I'm even curious about experimenting with ground tuna or salmon...but I haven't gotten there yet.

Serve them as part of a cocktail party passed hors d'oeuvres selection or just as a simple stand-alone nibble alongside pre-meal martinis at your next dinner party. They're super flavorful and addictive. Even my tiny, picky-eater granddaughter devoured at least 20 when I made them for her second birthday party last fall.

They're a fab freezer asset. Make them ahead, freeze them raw for months, and bake them straight from the freezer at party time.

Enjoy!!

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Ingredients

For the Meatballs:

• 2 lbs. ground meat, turkey and/or chicken. I like 1 pound pork and 1 pound ground beef (but ground chicken, turkey or lamb are good additions too)

• 3  tablespoons or more toasted. sesame oil

• 1 cup Panko or breadcrumbs

• 1-2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger (can substitute 2-3 teaspoons ground ginger. Or use a combo)

• 2 eggs

• 4 large cloves garlic, minced

• 1/2 cup thinly-sliced scallions

• optional garnish: toasted sesame seeds, sliced scallions or chopped chives

For the Sauce:

•  2/3 cup hoisin sauce

• 1/4 cup rice vinegar or more to taste (or extra can be lime juice)

• 3 garlic large cloves, minced 

• 3 tablespoons soy sauce

• 1 tablespoon sesame oil

• 1 tablespoon. ground ginger or 1-2 T grated fresh ginger

• hot sauce to taste

• salt and pepper to taste

Method

1. Preheat oven to 425-450.

2. Process all meatball ingredients except the panko last in a food processor.

3. Add the panko and pulse just to combine. 

4. Shape meat mixture into 1-inch balls (easiest when meat is very cold) and place on a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet or in a 9×13-inch baking dish.

5. Bake for 10-12 minutes in upper part of oven, or until meatballs are golden on the outside and no longer pink on the inside.

   NOTE: I highly suggest frying up a little bit of the meat mixture to taste and see if you want to add more seasoning (salt, pepper, garlic etc). The meatballs should be highly seasoned.

6. While the meatballs are baking, whisk together all of the sauce ingredients until blended. I use the food processor or blender for this as well.

7. Once meatballs have finished cooking,  pour the sauce over the meatballs and gently stir to combine. Top with sesame seeds and scallions and serve hot, warm or room temperature with toothpicks on the side.

February 2020 - Baked Pasta

BAKED PASTA

with Mushrooms and Radicchio

About the Recipe

In the California  kitchen of my childhood, baked pasta was synonymous with macaroni and cheese. And in college I discovered lasagna. But it was only after several dinners in the 1980’s at Providence, Rhode Island’s now-legendary Al Forno that I realized how many options for  baked-in-the oven-crunchy-on-top -and-luscious-within pasta dishes existed. Turns out the options are endless. 

Reading Cucina Simpatica--a fabulous cookbook written by James Beard Award-winning husband-and-wife team George Germon and Johann Killeen who own the restaurant-- I learned that "al forno" is Italian for "from the oven" and that recipes for these pastas hark back to the Middle Ages, when ovens were wood-fired and usually communal,  villagers carrying uncooked casseroles to town squares to be baked side-by-side with those of their neighbors. 

I highly recommend all Germon and Killeen’s cookbooks. The recipe below is my take on Baked Pasta with Mushrooms and Radicchio from Cucina Simpatica. Pasta al forno recipes are flexible. Feel free to substitute ingredients of your choice or even leftovers from the fridge. Hard to go wrong with so much cheese, cream, onions and garlic. Clearly not low-cal, but without doubt, comfort food at its very best.

For convenience, I often double or triple baked pasta recipes; uncooked dishes can be wrapped in foil, frozen for months and then popped into the oven as needed. Defrost first or bake frozen (extending the baking time as needed). 

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Ingredients

Serves 8 as a first course or 10-12 as a side dish

• ½ pound sliced mushrooms (any kind or mixed)

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

• 1½ teaspoons salt

• 2½ cups heavy cream

• ½ cup grated fontina cheese

• ½ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

• ½ cup crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese

• 2 tablespoons fresh ricotta

• ½ cup minced yellow onion

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 3 cups finely shredded radicchio

• 1¼ teaspoon salt or more to taste

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 8-10 leaves fresh sage chopped (or substitute 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, 1 teaspoon dried thyme or rosemary, or with 1 teaspoon whole fennel seed)

• ½ - 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 

• 3 tablespoons grated parmesan to sprinkle on top

• 1 pound imported pasta—fusilli, shells or penne

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Method

1. Preheat the oven to 500 °F with rack in highest position

2. Bring at least five quarts of salted water to the boil in a large pot

3. Heat 6 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet, add the mushrooms and salt and cook, stirring frequently until done and very tender, about ten minutes.

4. In a large bowl combine the cream, cheeses, onion, garlic, cooked mushrooms, radicchio, fresh sage, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper.

5. Parboil the pasta in the boiling water for exactly 4 minutes. Drain and immediately add to the bowl with the cream mixture.

6. Transfer the mixture to a large gratin dish. Pasta should be no more than 1 ½ inch deep. If necessary, use a second dish.

7. Evenly divide the remaining butter over the top and sprinkle generously with Parmesan

8. Bake until the pasta is bubbly and very hot and the top begins to brown, about 12-15 minutes. Let rest a few minutes before serving.

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January 2020 - Roast Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic

ROAST CHICKEN

with 40 Cloves of Meltingly Tender Garlic

About the Recipe

By the time January kicks in, I'm done with fois gras, done with prime rib, done with whipped cream desserts-at least for a while. What I'm ready for is basic comfort food. This recipe for  Roast Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic is a loose adaptation of a Richard Olney signature dish, and has been a favorite of mine and of my cooking students for years. Enlivened with Pernod and a myriad of herbs and spices, the cuisine de grandmère concoction outdoes Grandma’s wildest dreams. And because the casserole is covered until the last 20 minutes of cooking, optimum juiciness is guaranteed. When the lid is removed and the heat raised, the bird slips seamlessly from pale gold to crispy brown perfection.

If you are freaked out by the idea of Pernod with your chicken and of so much garlic, please don't be. It turns out that a few tablespoons of the anise-flavored liqueur exude a mellow opulence, and that all those garlic cloves,  caramelized on the outside while remaining sumptuously soft within, are food for the gods. Spread on thick slices of Country Toast or on the chicken itself, the garlic goes down as easily as creamery butter. I like to serve the chicken with pan-roasted root veggies, but sautéed green beans, most spinach preparations, green peas and/or potatoes or noodles work just fine too.

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Ingredients

For the Seasoning:

• 2 teaspoons dried thyme

• 1 1⁄2 teaspoons fine sea salt

• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Chicken:

• 1 (4 1⁄2–5 pound) whole chicken, rinsed in cool water and dried

• 1 large onion, sliced

• 1⁄2 bulb fennel, trimmed and sliced

• 10 sprigs fresh Italian parsley

• 1 small bunch fresh tarragon, plus more,chopped, for garnish

• 1 bay leaf

• 40 cloves garlic, whole and unpeeled

• 1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• 1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons of Pernod, Sambuca, or

  other anise-flavored liqueur

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Method

1. Make the Seasoning; combine the thyme, salt, and pepper and set aside.

2. Place 1⁄2 each of the onion, fennel, parsley, and tarragon in the bottom of a lidded casserole just large enough to hold the chicken. Rub the chicken, inside and out, with the seasoning, place the bay leaf and the remaining 1⁄2 of the vegetables and herbs inside the chicken, and place it, breast side up, in the casse- role. Set aside. (Refrigerate if not roasting within 4 hours.)

3. With a rack adjusted to the lower-third position, preheat the oven to 350°F.

4. Combine the garlic, oil, salt, and pepper and pour the mixture over the chicken. Then pour the Pernod over the chicken.

5. Cover the casserole and roast for 1 hour.

6. Raise the oven temperature to 500°F and remove the lid. If, once you’ve removed the lid, you can fit the casserole on a higher rack, do so as the chicken will brown better. Continue roasting for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is golden and cooked through. Test for doneness by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a fork or inserting an instant-read thermometer. The juices should run clear rather than pink and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the breast should register 158°F.

7. Place the chicken on a carving board to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.

8. While the chicken is resting, use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked garlic to a small bowl. Set aside.

9. Strain the juices from the casserole into a heatproof pitcher. Re- frigerate or freeze so that the fat will rise to the top more quickly.

10. Remove the pitcher from the refrigerator or freezer and use a spoon to remove as much of the fat as possible. Reheat the pan juices in a microwave or transfer them to a small saucepan and warm over medium heat.

11. Carve the chicken and arrange the slices on a serving platter. Pour about 1⁄4 of the warmed pan juices over the chicken. Top with the cooked garlic and garnish with the chopped tarragon.

12. Serve the chicken hot or warm with the pitcher of remaining pan juices.

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December 2019 - Cookies, Cookies, Cookies!

COOKIES, COOKIES

and More Cookies!

About the Recipe

December is Holiday Central. And I have dozens of  favorite dishes--delicious starters, main courses, sides and desserts--that I prepare for Christmas Eve, Christmas,  Hanukah,  New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.  So many in fact that in a quandary, I've decided to give some of my go-to cookie and candy recipes instead. I've made these recipes  again and again for gift-giving, snacking and primarily to give as gifts. Layer in a holiday tin or place in a cellophane bag and tie with a festive ribbon and you're all set.

Other than the Chocolate-Chocolate Shortbread, everything will keep for at least 2 weeks well-sealed at room temperature and frozen for months. For longer storage, cook the Chocolate-Chocolate shortbread a few minutes longer so that the cooled cookies will be crisp rather than soft and chewy. Equally delicious, just different.

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Basic Shortbread with Four Divine Variations

Yields approximately 200 (1⁄2-inch round) cookies

This makes enough basic shortbread dough for a huge number of cookies. The exact number will depend on the size. If there is too much dough to use at one time (there probably will be), you can freeze the surplus in one or in multiple packages. Thaw in the fridge before using.

Ingredients

• 2 cups unsalted butter, room temperature

• 1 cup granulated sugar

• 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1 large egg, room temperature

• 2 teaspoons best-quality pure vanilla extract

• 5 cups sifted all-purpose flour

Method

1. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric hand- held mixer set to medium–high speed, cream the butter, sugar, and salt for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.

2. Add the egg and the vanilla and beat 3 minutes more, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice with a rubber spatula.

3. With motor off, add the flour.

4. With the mixer on low speed, mix until just combined.

5. Roll the dough into logs 11⁄2 inches in diameter and 8 inches to 10 inches long. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface can help. If the dough is too warm to do this easily, refrigerate for about 30 minutes or until it is easy to work with.

6. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours and up to 3 days (or wrap the logs in foil and freeze for up to 6 months).

7. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the logs into 1⁄8-inch to 1⁄2-inch slices (depending on how thick you want your cookies) and place on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper.

8. Bake for 10 to 20 minutes, or until slightly colored (timing will depend on the thickness of the cookies). Transfer the cookies to wire racks. When completely cool, store in a covered container for 1 to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.

As for the variations, the candied ginger is my favorite, but the elegant espresso version is divine with an after-dinner coffee or a cappuccino. And any variety is a great solo or added to a cookie platter!

VARIATIONS:

Espresso: Replace 10 tablespoons of the flour with 10 tablespoons of finely ground espresso. Use only 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract.

Anise: Add 3 tablespoons of toasted whole anise seed and 1 teaspoon of ground anise seed to the flour. Replace the vanilla with 2 teaspoons of Pernod or another anise-flavored liquor.

Citrus: Add the freshly grated zest of 3 oranges, 4 lemons, or 6 limes and 1 teaspoon of a matching citrus extract. Omit the vanilla.

Ginger: Use only a 1⁄2 teaspoon of vanilla and add 2 tablespoons of ground ginger and 1 1/4  cup of very finely minced candied ginger.

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Chocolate-Chocolate Shortbread

Yields 35–45 cookies

These cookies are adapted from a Pierre Herme recipe via Dorie Greenspan. They are soft and chewy—so not technically shortbread—and the best chocolate cookies I know. Because the combination of chocolate and salt is a fave, I’ve added extra salt. For the original, less salty version, use 1⁄4 rather than 1⁄2 teaspoon.

Ingredients

• 1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1⁄3 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder

• 1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1 stick, plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

• 2⁄3 cup densely packed dark brown sugar

• 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar

• 1 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract

• 5 ounces best-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into bits (best-quality semisweet chocolate chips can be substituted)

Method

1. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt.

2. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric hand- held mixer set on medium–high speed, cream the butter with the brown and granulated sugars for 3 to 5 minutes, or until creamy.

3. Add the vanilla and beat for 1 to 2 more minutes. Reduce the speed to low, add the dry ingredients and chocolate bits, and mix until just combined. Don’t be concerned if the dough looks a little crumbly. For the best texture, work the dough as little as possible once the flour is added.

4. Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather it together and divide it in half. Working with one half at a time, shape the dough into logs that are 11⁄2inches in diameter. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface will help.

5. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months. If you’ve frozen the dough, you needn’t defrost it completely before baking, but you will need to bake the frozen dough 1 minute longer.)

6. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

7. Working with a sharp knife, slice the logs into rounds about 1⁄3-inch thick. (If the cookies break apart when slicing, just squeeze the broken bits back together.) Place on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving at least 3⁄4 of an inch between cookies.

8. Bake 1 sheet at a time for 13 minutes. The cookies won’t look done and will not be firm, but that is the way they should be. Let cool on the cookie sheets. Stored in a covered container, the cookies will keep up to 3 days. They can be frozen for up to 1 month.

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Peppermint Bark

Yields 2 1⁄2 pounds bark

This is virtually the same bark (actually I think it’s better) that you can order online for $20 to $30 per pound. It makes an ideal Christmas gift or stocking stuffer, though I’m addicted all year long. Coarsely chopped and served over vanilla or peppermint ice cream, it’s to die for. A drizzle of Bitter Chocolate Sauce  sends the sundae over the top.

Ingredients

• 1 1⁄2 pounds Guittard or other best-quaity semisweet chocolate chips or chopped semisweet chocolate

• 1⁄2 pound Guittard or other best-quality white chocolate chips or chopped white chocolate

• 1⁄2 teaspoon peppermint extract

• 1–2 cups peppermint candy canes, cut into approximate 1⁄2-inch pieces

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 250°F and line a 9-inch × 13-inch pan with parchment paper, letting the paper hang over the sides for easy removal. Set aside.

2. Shake or spread the chocolate chips into an even layer on the parchment paper. Place in the oven for 5 minutes, or until almost melted. Remove from oven, smooth with an offset spatula or knife. Set aside.

3. Melt the white chocolate chips in a double boiler or in a metal bowl set over simmering water (don’t let bottom of bowl touch water), until almost melted. Remove the bowl from the water, add the peppermint extract, and stir until completely melted.

4. Pour melted white chocolate over the still slightly soft chocolate layer and, working quickly, spread to cover. The 2 chocolates may “marble” a bit. If you prefer that they don’t, chill chocolate layer before adding the white chocolate. However, if the first layer is too hard, the layers don’t properly adhere and sometimes separate when cut into pieces.

5. While the white chocolate is still warm, evenly sprinkle with the candy canes and then use your hands to press the candy into the chocolate.

6. Chill for 30 to 60 minutes, or until both layers are firm. Lift paper out of pan and place on a cutting board.

7. The easiest way to “cut” the bark is to insert the tip of a large heavy knife and apply pressure. The bark will immediately begin to break up. Repeat until the pieces are the desired size.

8. Place the candy in a covered container. Store at room temperature for up to 1 week or in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

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Chocolate-Ginger Biscotti

Yields about 36 biscotti

I created these biscotti years ago for the original Dean and Deluca. That gig is long over, but I’m still making the biscotti and everyone still loves them. The combination of dark chocolate and chewy, sweet, and spicy candied ginger is hard to beat.

Ingredients

• 1 cup granulated sugar

• 5 1⁄2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

• 2 large whole eggs, room temperature

• 1⁄4 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract

• 3 oz candied ginger, chopped

• 2 1⁄2 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

• 2 oz toasted unsalted macadamia or cashew nuts, coarsely chopped

• 1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder

• 1⁄4 teaspoon powdered ginger

• 1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 2 1⁄3 cups all-purpose flour

• 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

• 7 oz semisweet chocolate 

• 2 teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric handheld mixer set on medium speed, cream the sugar and butter for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.

3. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat 5 minutes more, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally with a rubber spatula.

4. Mix the chopped ginger, chopped chocolate, and nuts together in a small bowl. Add them to the batter and beat until combined.

5. Sift the baking powder, powdered ginger, salt, flour, and cocoa powder together onto a piece of waxed paper and gradually add to the batter while beating on low speed. Beat until just combined.

6. Divide the batter into quarters and roll into logs about 11⁄2 inches in diam- eter. Lightly flouring your hands and the work surface will help, as the dough is sticky.

7. Place the logs at least 2 inches apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper and bake for 20 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven. When cool, cut into 1⁄2-inch slices and place back on the cookie sheets. Bake for 5 minutes on each side and transfer to wire racks to cool.

9. Optionally, once the biscotti are completely cool, melt the semisweet choc- olate with the oil in a small saucepan set over low heat. One at a time, dip the flat of each of the biscotti into the chocolate and place on wax paper–lined cookie sheets. Refrigerate until the chocolate is hard.

10. Store in airtight cans for up to 4 weeks at room temperature or in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 4 months.

    VARIATION :

    Orange–Hazelnut Biscotti: Omit both gingers and replace with 1 tablespoon grated orange zest. Use hazelnuts instead of the macadamias or cashews. And add 1⁄4 cup of raisins or currants along with the chopped chocolate.

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Tiny Chocolate Chip Cookies

Yields at least 200 tiny cookies

This is truly a case of less is more. These tiny, bite-sized cookies are infinitely better than the large ones. Or maybe it’s a case of more is more as they are incredibly chocolaty with proportionately 4 times as many chocolate chips as in normal Toll House cookies. Remember: It’s easier to form the cookies if the dough is very cold; refrigerate for several hours or freeze for an hour or two.

Ingredients

• 2 1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 1⁄4 teaspoons fine sea salt

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature

• 1 cup densely packed dark brown sugar

• 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar

• 1 teaspoon best-quality pure vanilla extract

• 2 large eggs, room temperature

• 8 cups (4 [12-ounce] packages) semi-sweet chocolate chips

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Sift the flour, salt, and baking soda together onto a piece of waxed paper. Set aside.

3. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or an electric handheld mixer set on medium–high speed, cream the butter and brown and granulated sugars for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the vanilla extract and then the eggs and continue to mix about 3 to 5 minutes more, or until fluffy.

4. Add the sifted dry ingredients and the chips and beat on low speed until just combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

5. Using a table knife, scoop up small bits of batter— a teaspoon or less per cookie—and place about 1⁄2 inch apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper. Be sure to include at least 2 or 3 chocolate chips in each cookie cookie. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to wire racks to cool.

6. When completely cool, store in a covered container for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 6 months.